Project: The TSI AWD that could. Options

[93dsmowner]

Picked up a 1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD 6bolt w/ 4bolt rear for $900 today. Definitely a project for me.

Needs the interior detailed due to mold. Needs some interior panel TLC.

Transmission grinds. Needs syncros replaced.

New plugs: NGK-R

Went to replace the PCV valve and the piece that covers the threaded area broke... now I need a new valve cover... oh joy. Is $75 reasonable for one or does anyone have one I can have? It'd be greatly appreciated.

Experienced fuel-cut in 2nd gear at 5k RPM. This thing is the fastest car I've driven to date...

So I have my work cut out for me. Any comments/suggestions are welcome.

For those wondering, it's treydawg's Talon he had for sale.

[black92_tsi_awd]

That's a good year with the prime 6bolt/4 bolt.

Look at my Garage...show you to get in the 12's.

Look around for a valve cover, you should be able to get them on the board or ebay cheaper.

[awd4kicks]

Excellent purchase!

[93dsmowner]

I know. I'm hearing an awful lot about you Mr. Marcus.

Would ya mind heading over with Travis when we pull my tranny? Won't be for quite some time... gotta save up $800 for a damned rebuild from JacksTransmissions...


Also keeping an eye out for a Shephard or Jacks AWD tranny to buy on DSM Trader...

I think I am going to be working on this over the summer. It should be done sometime next Spring.

Plans are:

3" exhaust (including downpipe and test pipe). Apexi N1 or Bushur Racing.
Replacing rubber intake plumbing with solid. MBC and gauges. 190 rewired pump. Not sure on injector size (depends on hp goal), GM MAFT, external wastegate.

I figure 350hp to the wheels is a reasonable goal. 220 made me giddy until fuel cut at 5k...

Hopefully I can get around $4k saved up and go from there.

[black92_tsi_awd]

what turbo do you plan on running?

strip, street or open track car?

that information combined with your HP goals will help decide which way to go with all the modifications.

[93dsmowner]

First and foremost it will be a DD... that's why I'm going to take so long and do everything right.

I might autocross it, but not until I get a nice suspension underneath. I have the wheels and tires from my Eclipse so I'm set there.

More than likely I'd like to get down to a 13 or maybe 12's if $$$ allows.

Going to pull the valve cover tonight and make sure nothing fell into the top of the motor when the valve cover broke. I need to jack it up and see if there is anything I can do to fix the exhaust rattle too. Maybe I'll just have a downpipe and nothing else

[ncgalant]

Sounds like you'll be wanting an evo3 16g and 650s with those goals. I wouldn't worry to much about the external WG though. Seems like a waste of $$ with a 350hp goal.

[93dsmowner]

Yeah. I was thinking of either maxing out the 14b or going with the Evo 16G. That's what I had guess was a set of Denso 650's or something.

Changed the oil tonight and put some Rislone additive in it. Oil was watery and black. 10W30 Quaker State and Purolator Premium Plus filter (Didn't have a PureOne in stock)

So what should I do for a tranny to hold 350hp? Clutch? I have $350 right now and make $240/month.

Oh, and I started the car in 1st so I could use 1st. Got a little 3k RPM launch in the street..... I love this car

Even though Travis put the extended rod on the slave cylinder, it still seems like the threaded rod needs to be turned out... When I start the car in gear, it moves the car... and it's on a flat area...

I need to clean the interior throughout this week. It's all moldy and it smells HORRID in this thing...

[black92_tsi_awd]

The 14b can get you in the 12's, the 16g gets you there faster.

I would just rebuild the stock trans and call it a day. I would spend the money fixing up the rest of the car.

I have a ACT 2600 in mine, has over 100 strip passes on it and most of those on a 5500 launch stutterbox. I measured it last time it was out and it's only halfway worn.

[93dsmowner]

Once I do a tranny rebuild it will be my DD.

$1300 for this sound good??
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/product_...9fe654299709492

I was told that since the syncros are so bad and have been ground (45 minute drive home...) that the hubs/sliders would need replacing...

I figure the extra $500 over the Economy rebuild (so I'd have a double syncro 1st and 2nd) would be worth it for the longetivity.

The stock clutch is great. It engages on the floor. Like I said, it moves the car... I need someone to depress the clutch when it's jacked up to see if the slave cylinder has any breathing room to push more... don't want to bend it or break anything... it just feels like it's not disengaging the clutch.

EDIT: The only difference between Economy and Value is:
New 3-4 hub
New 3-4 slider
4 Spider Center Diff w/ Upper Torrington Bearing
Double syncro 1st gear.

Is it even worth the extra $500? Since 3rd grinds, I assume I need the new hub and slider..

EDIT2: Should I stay away from eBay downpipes, test pipes, and other parts?? I found a 3" test-pipe for $75/shipped and a 3" downpipe for $155 What about the O2 sensor? Isn't that in the O2 housing right off the turbo? Would I still need a "catback" to finish it off? Still learning guys! Bear with me

[JMoushon]

Not sure of your exact goals and $$, but 13's are attainable with a mbc and exhaust, running race gas... pretty cheap. 12's are not expensive either, just a good fuel pump, clutch, and a few supporting mods...

[93dsmowner]

Boy oh boy. I'm frustrated. Going through the interior cleaning out the mold and mildew. Went to turn the car around and it was idling kinda high. Cranked the wheel and gave it a couple revs to 3-4k (Idlin at 2k) and went to turn the car around. Went to straighten the wheel and: NO POWER STEERING.

Turns out the freaking belt came off. There was a bar chilling on the side too so my tensioner may have been missing or something. At this point, I'm ready to say screw it and just pull the motor out of it and go from there. It seems like something else goes wrong everytime I start the thing.


I love my DSM.


Oh, would it be alright for SloPny to rebuild the tranny? Haven't called for a price but ShepTrans said I would need the stage 3 to hold 400hp with some head room. :/ $2k for a rebuild isn't in my budget.

[A Bearcat's GS-T]

It seems like something else goes wrong everytime I start the thing.


I love my DSM.

AHHH that's just the nature of the beast. As far as that exhaust goes, I recommend the APEXi N1 exhaust system. It is a little on the pricey side, but you will never regret the awesome deep rumble that that system makes and the added power you get from it as well. As far as the EBAY parts go, you usually get what you pay for. If it seems too good to be true, it is. So shop around, sometimes you can find a real bargain on Ebay, other times you just have to laugh and go on. ( Like when you see a Brembo brake kit for $500) My advice would be to stick with the tried and true companies and to go to their web sites to see who is an authorized dealer of their products. Machv.com is a great site for any stage of modification, and they have a page that shows you the recommended order to do your upgrades. Good luck with your TSI, and happy tuning!

-Matt

[93dsmowner]

Paying $1200 for 12ft of 3" pipe and a few flanges? Yuckk...

Oh well. Is that belt problem a tough job to tackle for my first time working on the 4g63?

[treydawgs4g63T]

belt should be a breaze, prolly wasnt tight enough. the bracket thats hangin there is most likely just the little one that connects from the motor mount bracket to the bracket the PS pump sits in front of. one bolt and one nut!

I am running a 3" buschur racing exhaust system and love it! i wouldnt have something made, i would just save up and buy one of the good name brand systems.

[93dsmowner]

Yeah looked at the belt with a buddy last night. On that bracket, there's just a nut on the bottom. :/ I need to look up how the belt goes on though. Got it around the power steering and alt. Doesn't seem big enough to go around much more... maybe one more accessory. :/ Oh well.

Hey Travis, I was told that my clutch isn't disengaging properly. Will it bend the slave cylinder rod if I adjust the clutch linkage under the dash?

[SCCA Stang]

I was running a 3" pressbent custom setup and it sounded good... go to neamore's exhaust in CreveTucky.. talk to Brian, he knows his shit and make you one hell of a good sounding exhaust pretty cheap too.

[93dsmowner]

Sound isn't as important as flow. I didn't mind my Eclipse and not only was it obnoxious, but not that rumble that everyone loves.

I just want a 3" pipe that goes from the turbo to the bumper with an Apexi N1 muffler.

Only reason I see to go to a Megan Racing/Buschur/Apexi full exhaust is for the research/design and a few less decibels...

[JMoushon]

I've got a 2.5" magnaflow I'll let you have CHEAP. It's a cat-back. You can go 12s on a 2.5" PM if interested.

[Dakota_DSM]

Picked up a 1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD 6bolt w/ 4bolt rear for $900 today. Definitely a project for me.

Needs the interior detailed due to mold. Needs some interior panel TLC.

Transmission grinds. Needs syncros replaced.

New plugs: NGK-R

Went to replace the PCV valve and the piece that covers the threaded area broke... now I need a new valve cover... oh joy. Is $75 reasonable for one or does anyone have one I can have? It'd be greatly appreciated.

Experienced fuel-cut in 2nd gear at 5k RPM. This thing is the fastest car I've driven to date...

So I have my work cut out for me. Any comments/suggestions are welcome.

For those wondering, it's treydawg's Talon he had for sale.

I have a valve cover that I will be taking off my GST sometime today... I honestly think $75 is to much for a regular old valve cover... So $55 and you can have it....

[93dsmowner]

JMoushon, PM me. I can't send you a PM for some reason...

Thanks Dakota. I'll definitely consider it. How's the GST coming along?

[Dakota_DSM]

Thanks Dakota. I'll definitely consider it. How's the GST coming along?

Pretty good I just replaced most of my vac and emissions lines, put new plugs in her and put my valve cover on . Tomorrow I am going to replace the rest of the lines and possibly take her around the block...

[Dakota_DSM]

Thanks Dakota. I'll definitely consider it. How's the GST coming along?

Pretty good I just replaced most of my vac and emissions lines, put new plugs in her and put my valve cover on. I did the oil change yesterday. Tomorrow I am going to replace the rest of the lines and possibly take her around the block...

[93dsmowner]

Hahah good to hear.

Well I got that belt on tonight. Just got a new one from Advanced for like $15..


So my exhaust rattle is: Heat shield around catalytic converter is loose so I needs some nuts/bolts to fix it, or just have my exhaust end at the dp. Need to remove the bolts from the flange tomorrow since they wouldn't budge tonight....

[JBone]

I went through my fair share of headaches with my DSM's power steering. Now that you have that belt on, be aware of it stretching a little bit here in the next couple of weeks. You will have to tighten it up a little bit more after that stretching.

[SCCA Stang]

Sound isn't as important as flow. I didn't mind my Eclipse and not only was it obnoxious, but not that rumble that everyone loves.

I just want a 3" pipe that goes from the turbo to the bumper with an Apexi N1 muffler.

Only reason I see to go to a Megan Racing/Buschur/Apexi full exhaust is for the research/design and a few less decibels...

not saying that sound is everything....

I think both are important... but I do have to say that my 3" pressbent system flowed good enough to see the occasional flames out the tip and mine was 3" from the turbo to the rear bumper with a straight through designed dynomax muffler.

sounded good too and with the 3" tip it didn't look or sound as outragious as a lot of the guys cars who have the giant 5 incher tips on them...

for a couple hundred I would say that Brian Neamore could hook you up pretty good... just go in and talk with him and tell him what you want.

[Dakota_DSM]

I don't see the point in going out and spending $500+ on a exhaust... Just get a ebay 3" down pipe, 3" test pipe, and 3" cat back w/ n1 style muffler. for around $300-350... in the end it's just piping...

[SCCA Stang]

who said anything about a $500+ exhaust

[Dakota_DSM]

who said anything about a $500+ exhaust

Idk he said he wanted a apex-i n1 and the muffler alone is 250...

[93dsmowner]

Well I think I'll just get a full 3" from parts on Ebay. 3" DP and TP... a catback on there is still like $450. Midpipe and muffler or anything else?

I might be able to get some funding help and start a REAL project. We'll have to wait and see.

[Red_06_EvoRS]

So my exhaust rattle is: Heat shield around catalytic converter is loose so I needs some nuts/bolts to fix it, or just have my exhaust end at the dp. Need to remove the bolts from the flange tomorrow since they wouldn't budge tonight....

I had a similar rattle in my exhaust on my old 93 GSX. Meineke just took a pair of pliers and yanked the shields off. Charged me $5 and I was on my way rattle-free.

[SCCA Stang]

Well I think I'll just get a full 3" from parts on Ebay. 3" DP and TP... a catback on there is still like $450. Midpipe and muffler or anything else?

I might be able to get some funding help and start a REAL project. We'll have to wait and see.

you'll be just as happy and much cheaper if you just go to neamore's...

[93dsmowner]

Hmm alright...

Anyways, played with the car tonight.

I can get the car into gear without grinding in all gears! If I put the brakes on and slip the clutch in like 2nd or 4th gear, I can smash the clutch and throw it into 1st or 3rd without grinding...

Also, you know how you can't put the shifter into gear unless the clutch is in or the syncs line up? Well, the syncs on 2nd and 4th keep things out without grinding, whereas the syncs for 1st and 3rd let me in to grind gears. So it IS my syncros...

Need to fix my tight shifter feel and get a syncro kit in the tranny. Will I need anything else replaced? $800 is just a little steep for a rebuild for me at the moment...

[black92_tsi_awd]

You won't really know what you need until you pull the trans apart.

If the syncros have been bad for a while, you'll most likely need some gears and the hubs and sliders. That's what happen to me.

[93dsmowner]

Well I think I am going to do the economy rebuild from Jacks Transmissions or the Stage 1.5 from TRE. Gotta get the $$$ first.

[93dsmowner]

Ok, so more fiddling today and I discovered another new find.

If I go from 2nd to 1st quickly I get no grind.

I'm going to put in some 85-140W Coastal Gear oil in and see if it helps since it's never been rebuilt.

[turbohcar]

Ok, so more fiddling today and I discovered another new find.

If I go from 2nd to 1st quickly I get no grind.

I'm going to put in some 85-140W Coastal Gear oil in and see if it helps since it's never been rebuilt.

Draining the old stuff and putting in some GM Synchromesh is the best thing you can do for it.

[SCCA Stang]

Ok, so more fiddling today and I discovered another new find.

If I go from 2nd to 1st quickly I get no grind.

I'm going to put in some 85-140W Coastal Gear oil in and see if it helps since it's never been rebuilt.

Draining the old stuff and putting in some GM Synchromesh is the best thing you can do for it.

werd.... exactly what I was going to say

[93dsmowner]

85-140W Coastal made a big difference. Extremely smooth shifts and much less grinding.

Will Syncromesh stop the grinding?

[treydawgs4g63T]

no thats what i put in it. royal purple syncromesh!!!!

[93dsmowner]

Ok then. It was milky and there were small shavings on the drain plug so my tranny needs built for sure.

[treydawgs4g63T]

oh for sure!!!!

[93dsmowner]

So today I:

Cleaned the K&N Filter and reoiled it
Pulled lower honeycomb on MAS.
Swapped front wheels.
Back wheels need a sledge to come off...
Reinstalled balance shaft belt

I should hopefully have the money for my tranny by the end of June. I think I may just save until Spring and build it then. I figure I should have $5k saved by Spring if I'm lucky.

[treydawgs4g63T]

Ok i think we've had enough talk about the tranny...........

why did you take the balance shaft belt off? actually you never said you were even doing a timing job!

[93dsmowner]

Timing belt was fine. Balance shaft belt fell off when I revved to like 5500 so I replaced the belt.

[93dsmowner]

UPDATE:

Went to go about putting in my head unit and new speakers and found out that I'm missing my passenger side window motor!

Heh. Window was being held with a toilet plunger and vice grips.

So here's my list so far of needs.

Valve cover
Carpet for hatch
window motor
(Getting all for $80)

Tranny rebuild (Emailed Jacks about the $800 Economy build)
Underbody cleaning.


Also, pulled the heat shield off my cat the other day. Much less annoying rattle. Have to find the remainder, but it was enough that I could hear my BOV in the car. I revved it to 6k once and it makes a whirring sound I never heard before. It sounds normal, and it was after I ran SeaFoam through it. Think it's just from the carbon buildup coming off? I'm going to do an oil change again soon, since I start it everyday and play with it.


Another couple tard questions.

1. When I turn the key to on before I start it, there's a bubbling sort of noise and if I let it do it for a couple minutes it stops. What and why? I can't locate the sound but it's in the engine bay.
2. Why does it take so long to start? I swapped batteries with my Eclipse and it's the same problem. Takes 3 or 4 seconds of cranking instead of instant like my Eclipse. Normal or what should I do to fix it?


Sorry guys. I'm anal. Not sure if that's good or bad when owning a DSM..

[treydawgs4g63T]

1- its not a bubbling noise your hearing its a relay on the fire wall. cant remember which one is the culprit but thats where the noise is coming from.

2- most likely its the coolant temp sensor. they cause the cars to run a little rich when the fail and that causes it to have a rough start. Plus the light was on which means its prolly a junk sensor.

[93dsmowner]

I filled the overflow res and topped off the system and the light is gone...

I'll look into replacing the coolant temp sensor. Would the temp gauge still work properly?

[JMoushon]

It would probably work more accurately.

[93dsmowner]

I meant would it work right even if the temp sensor was bad.

[ncgalant]

The dash guage and ECU use different sensors that are right next eachother. On the Tstat housing, the one with one wire is your guage, and the two wire goes to the ECU

[93dsmowner]

Well, I'll look into it soon.

[93dsmowner]

So it's not my shifter that is the problem. The cable itself is tight...

What do I need to do? I can't see crap as far as binding goes under the car or anything.

Going to get SS clutch and brake lines after the car is driveable (Read: New tranny and t-case)

[Dakota_DSM]

So do you still have the 1.8L eclipse?

[93dsmowner]

Yeah. It's for sale. $2500 OBO.

[93dsmowner]

Yeehaw!

Picked up the Punishment Racing intercooler from Travis along with other tidbits (Lights, mbc, valve cover, window motor, etc.)

Pulled the entire intake from the turbo back out. I just need to figure out how to get the intercooler on.

My buddy and I went to bolt the bottom brackets to the bottom and the bolt head broke off

I think we must have broken 20 bolt heads last night. Ugh. Oh well, I just have to take an Easy Out and have at it...

[treydawgs4g63T]

so did u figure everything out?

[93dsmowner]

Getting closer. I quit around 11:30. Worked at my dad's friend's house yesteray. Made $100.

I'll be done sooner or later.

[Dakota_DSM]

update?

[93dsmowner]

Nah. It's been set to the backburner. I had finals this week (Fri, Mon, Tue) and now I'm in the process of putting my audio setup in the Cavalier.

I need a new harness that plugs directly into the HU. Mine's buggered, and I can't find one as of yet. :/

[93dsmowner]

So I will have some cash to burn in the next few weeks and I want to get ahold of some parts before I get the intercooler in.

I'm looking for something in the area of 400hp out of this car. What do I need?

Right now I'm looking at:
Buschur 3" Turboback Exhaust w/ O2 eliminator housing
EvoIII 16G Fully ported
SBR Tubular ported header
Turbosmart 38mm wastegate


I would guess that that would be a good way to start on my 400hp goal. This car won't be moving for quite a while, since it needs a tranny so I figure I will keep looking for a used one while I build it up.

What kind of injector size am I looking at? Would a set of AMS 580's get me there or do I need to be looking for something more like 660's or 750's?

Cams are on the list but not necessarily a priority yet, but I'm looking at 272's unless the 264's are all that is necessary.

I'm prowling DSMTalk as well in between working 45 hours a week so I'm trying to pick up on stuff but your help would be much appreciated!

[ncgalant]

If it were me, I would go with
EVO316g
650-720cc injectors
2g exhuast manifold
2g O2 housing
SAFC2
2g MAF or MAFT and 3" GM maf
3" exhaust of your choice


Use the internal wastegate, it'll do the job just fine. A pretty header is just pretty, but not real functional for your goal. I've always looked for the most power for my buck. If pretty under the hood is what you're looking for, then that's another story. Keep reading the archives at DSMTalk. I did the same when I was new. There's a lot of good info there.

[Dakota_DSM]

I don't think You are going to get 400awhp out of a 16g.... You mite want something bigger...

50 trim or 20g with supporting mods and link....

[ncgalant]

I guess that one depends on what you mean by horsepower too. Are we talking wheel horsepower or crank horsepower? They say that 400whp is possible on an evo3 16g, but 350 is a much more realistic number. That being said, 350whp is roughly 422 crank horses.

[93dsmowner]

Well, if I stayed closer to a stock power number (Like 300-350) then it'd be easier on the tranny.

I just wish that tranny rebuilds weren't so expensive (ie $1500)

[ncgalant]

Something to consider there. 350whp is well over double what your car made out of the factory.

195 * .83 = 162whp

The coolest thing about that is that the stock 14b has dyno'd 300whp with only light mods, and well more on track only cars running air/water intercoolers.

[93dsmowner]

Wait.

Rephrase that last part.

I'd have to run a air/water intercooler (crammed full of ice I reckon) and light mods for 300hp out of the 14b?


300hp seems to be my first goal. I'm going to have the $$$ for a tranny in about 3 weeks ($1200+~$600-$1000) so I would like to get on track with my project in the next week or two to get a general idea.

If I stick with the 14B, would I be best off to rebuild it?
I have a Punishment Racing FMIC at the moment, as well as a MBC.

So what am I lookin at for 300hp?


Gauges (Boost but what else is necessary?)
Fuel injectors (Would 550's from AMS do me or am I looking at more in the way of 600+?)
Walbro 255lph fuel pump and do the rewire.
Turboback 3" with O2 delete and cat delete
3" mandrel bent tube with silicon fittings for an intake. Would it work? Would the turbo be too hot for the silicon couplers?
2G Header


What should I be looking for in a tranny for 300hp? Right now I'm looking at the DevoTuning rebuild for $800 since it replaces all syncros.

[ncgalant]

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86149

Those are the best dyno numbers you'll get from a 14b. He runs a 12.00 with it.

[black92_tsi_awd]

I would concentrate on getting the trans fixed. All your other mods are useless if the trans is broke and it won't run. A stock trans will take you to the 11's. How fast do you want to go??

See my garage...a 14b can take you to the 12's. I'm currently running 12.4's to 12.8's depending on the weather at 17-18 psi. Supra SMIC, 550's, 2 1/2" intake and exhaust piping and 2g exhaust and O2 housings. Pretty simple stuff.

[93dsmowner]

12's would be plenty fast I think.

I found a rebuild locally for $800.

Well, locally... 3 hours north at DevoTuning.

I have $1100 right now. I shot them an email asking a worst case scenario so I know what kind of $$$ I need to have to spend before I drop it off up there.

[black92_tsi_awd]

One thing I always do with shops is ask for the broken parts back. It tends to keep places honest. Unless there's a core charge involved with the part you're getting fixed, a good shop won't hae any problems giving you the broken stuff back or at least showing you the components they need to keep for cores.

I'm not saying there's anything bad about Devotuning, just a general statement.

[93dsmowner]

I'm like a woman apparently...

I didn't notice the Specials page at TRE. Looks like they have trannies that don't require a core.

Now, is the 4 spider that much better than the 2 spider? It's an extra $350 so it would take another 2 weeks to pay for it, but if it's worth it then I will go with that.

91-94 AWD

1991-94 AWD STAGE 1 This transmission features: glass beaded case, OEM gear ratios, double synchro 2nd gear, HD 3/4 gearset, 2 spider center differential w/ Torrington bearing and a 23 spline output shaft. SPECIAL PRICE $1000 no core required.

1991-94 AWD STAGE 1 This transmission features: glass beaded case, OEM gear ratios, double synchro 2nd gear, HD 3/4 gearset, 4 spider center differential w/ Torrington bearing and a 23 spline output shaft. SPECIAL PRICE $1350 no core required.

1991-94 AWD STAGE 2 This transmission features: glass beaded case, OEM gear ratios, double synchro 2nd gear, HD 3/4 gearset, 4 spider center differential w/ Torrington bearing, RIPGRIP limited slip front diff, and a 23 spline output shaft. SPECIAL PRICE $1600 no core required.

1991-94 AWD STAGE 2 This transmission features: glass beaded case, OEM gear ratios, double synchro 2nd gear, HD 3/4 gearset, TRE spooled center differential and a 23 spline output shaft. SPECIAL PRICE $1250 no core required.

1991-94 AWD STAGE 3 This transmission features: shot peened gears, glass beaded case, EVO-III 1st gear, double synchro 2nd gear, EVO-III double synchro close ratio 3rd/4th gearset, 4 spider center differential w/ Torrington bearing and a 23 spline output shaft. SPECIAL PRICE $2500 no core required.

[black92_tsi_awd]

I would get the best transmission you can afford. But if you spend all your cash on a $2500 trans, you may not have the cash to get it rolling. And that's where the fun is.

Like I said a good stock trans will get you in the 11's, I've got probably 150+ drag strip runs on my stock rebuild (new sycros and a couple gears) with no issues.

Don't forget to invest in a decent clutch, that will play an important role in getting the power to the ground.

[93dsmowner]

Well, I'm going to probably spend $1300 on the 4 spider Stage 1.

Or $1250 on the TRE Spooled Stage 2. Not sure. What does the spool do?

(Sorry, on lunch break so short on time. Lol. )

[black92_tsi_awd]

I beleive the spool will lock the drive between the front and rear drive wheels. There will be no compensation for slippage between the front drive wheels and the rear.

[awd4kicks]

For street driving stick with the 4 spider instead of the spool. The spider will deliver the same power that the spool will and it will be invisible to you. The spool will cause the tires to chirp and lock in slow tight turns like when you are in a parking lot. If you want to hear what it sounds like your more than welcome to take a ride in my spooled Talon.

[93dsmowner]

It'd be nice to take a ride in a 11 second Talon Marcus. Where are you located? Washburn right?

[black92_tsi_awd]

Just shine the Mitsu logo on a cloud from a spotlight....

The Talon will arrive to save the day








It's like calling Batman, but at least the Talon's power is real....

[ncgalant]

Just shine the Mitsu logo on a cloud from a spotlight....

The Talon will arrive to save the day








It's like calling Batman, but at least the Talon's power is real....

well most of the time, when she's not erasing chips for fun

[93dsmowner]

Hah

Does anyone know how the shipping service works for TRE?

Do I have to pay for S&H? I can't get a straight answer from Jon at the moment :[

I'm planning on selling my core to him for $400 and getting the $1600 specials tranny with the RIPGRIP, double 2nd, 3rd and 4th HD, and the 4 spider torrington transfer case.

[awd4kicks]

Yeah I'm in Washburn. I'll be around this weekend if you want to get together, but I'll be out of town for the next week. PM me and I can send you directions and a phone number.

I've never sent Jon a core so I don't know how that shipping works. All the new EVOIII parts in my transmission are from Jon and he just added shipping to the total bill. I've been patient with Jon when he didn't always have time to communicate and he has taken care of me every time. Tell him your from DSMCentral and that we recommended you go there.

The Bat signal...

[93dsmowner]

Will do mate.


Going to start removing things to get the tranny out. Batt and intake are already out. Exhaust is to come off next.

[93dsmowner]

I have the $$$ for the Stage 2 trans for $1550. My dad's buddy is going to help me pull the tranny and reinstall the new one. I'm pumped. Should have the FMIC and trans and everything in by the time school starts. Gotta get the passenger side window motor in (or buy a new one.. bleh) as well.

[Dakota_DSM]

Good to hear! I can't wait until I have all the goodies for mine

[93dsmowner]

UPDATE!!


I got in touch with Jon and got the trans tagged for me. I should be meeting him in Joliet to pick it up next weekend.

Gotta get started on dropping the old trans I guess.

Need to find a ACT 2600 clutch though.

[treydawgs4g63T]

sounds like your gonna turn that car into a nice lil ride. and only have a few G's in it.

Good luck on the removal and install of the old and new tranny. Its not to bad and your better off learning to do it instead of having someone else do it. ( NOt saying your gonna have to do it over and over or anything ).

[93dsmowner]

Over and over? Lol depends on how many Talons I buy!


So far I have a pretty rough plan.

11-12 second 1/4 car

350-450hp
Evo III 16G
3" turboback w/ open dump
Punishment Racing FMIC (Have it already)
Aluminum rad and slim fan
Remove AC


Plenty of other things. i'll be keeping it mostly stock until I can pull it and rebuild the motor. Remove balance shafts and all that. She won't be moving for a while I reckon. How hard is it to remove balance shafts?

[SCCA Stang]

I'd probably do the balance shaft removal if I was going in for a timing belt anyway, but if not I would wait on it.

[93dsmowner]

Well it's got like 90k on it so I should probably do the timing belt anyways.

Man, I wish E85 would drop back down. Couple months ago it was like $2/gallon at Thornton's. It's like $3.50 now...

[SCCA Stang]

Mitsu recommends 60K on timing belts.... if yours is at 90k then you are running on borrowed time... change that thing or you will find out what belt valves are all about.

[93dsmowner]

Haha.


You mean it's not good for piston-valve contact?


I should say that it looks like an old belt but I really don't know. I'd have to inspect it more closely...

[ncgalant]

The belt won't look bad until its about 100 miles from snaping. Replace it before its to late!

[SCCA Stang]

I used and really liked the Greddy Kevlar belt I got from Buschur Racing, they gave me a great price too... and while you are there get a new tensioner (I prefer the one from the Mitsu dealer) and swap in a new water pump...

Napa has a good pump that is a positive displacement pump that flows much more than the stock type impeller pump... the only thing is with that you gotta make sure you check out every inch of your cooling system... the extra volume will definately show you the weak points of your old 90K mile system... but on the plus side you will not have to worry about not having enough to keep that thing cool.

[93dsmowner]

My eyes and desires are bigger than my wallet.


The car is going to sit for quite a while.

I'm looking to get:
Aluminum Rad
All new high pressure coolant hoses, replace the thermostat with a lower temp one as well.
Aftermarket fan.
Ditch the A/C.
Greddy Timing belt.
I get a discount on the NAPA pump because I work there!


I'm going to remove ABS. Drop some weight, stainless brake lines at the same time, good stuff. Going to do a nice set of brakes front and rear as well.

I figure the order of operation will be:
Free Weight reduction and maintenance.
Little things to open up engine bay (ABS, batt relocation, ditch A/C)
Brakes.
Suspension
Power.



We'll have to wait and see. I have a rusted out passenger rear quarter. it's at the edge above the wheel well and is missing some metal as well. How would I go about fixing this correctly? I'll probably just primer it and get some nice white paint to paint it.

[A Bearcat's GS-T]

Sometimes it's past the point of fixing cheaply and you'll have to either: A) Replace the whole thing (Not the car, the panel) Cut the rusted area off so it won't spread and re-attach some new metal or what-have-you in it's place. But then again I dont know what kinda shape it's in. Or if your cheap, like me, just remove as much as the rust as possible and paint over it. That Greddy belt is a good one BTW.

[93dsmowner]

Yeah. I'm considering just removing metal and rounding it out to make it look alright. Just gotta go fast.

I already got a SRT 4 talkin smack!

[SCCA Stang]

really think removing the A/C all the way through....

you will really only lose about 15lbs of total weight, you can do like I did and remove the belt at the track, but I loved how cold my A/C was and really made the car a versitile driver.
I especially miss the A/C now that I have the Stang that does not have A/C...

[93dsmowner]

Well, my buddy and I took a stab at it all day today. Started at around 11:00 AM and worked and made part runs and stuff all day today.

At around 6:30 it started with all vacuum hooked up, except wastegate solenoid (D'oh!) and we gave her some revs to hear the BOV to atmosphere. Lots of laughs from that.


Got my trans from Jon Ripple Friday. Sat and shot the bird with him for a couple hours and left to return home.

Anyways, we were going to do the trans but instead we put the intercooler in and hooked her all up. Fuel cut is nasty at around 5k RPM. I need to get my intake sealed up but it's easier to ask questions with pictures.

Making runs up and down my buddy's road to get the ECU used to the IC, the car died.

Like, 4k RPM launch (New clutch and trans going in, slipped nice on launch and was nice to it) and ran it through 1st, caught 2nd and all of a sudden I heard PSSSHHHh and no power. At all.


Crank crank crank... all belts turn. Timing is good. Marks line up.

So we pull the valve cover. Oh dear.


I have pics but my buddy has to post them. He has the cam. All I can say is that all 8 rocker arms on the intake side popped. I hear a clacking on the last run and a little less power so this must have been a slow occurance. Slight scoring on a couple cam lobes which can be wetsanded out I assume? Good time for new plugs and wires, especially wires which started coming apart on me...


Well, that's the end of my dilemmas for this post. Gotta start saving for my top end. 272 cams, 2G lifters, couple other things.

[93dsmowner]

Pics worth a thousand words?

[SCCA Stang]

not sure why your "rockers" (properly called followers on a DSM) popped off, but if you need a head and cams, I have a '93 head with '93 cams from a AWD here at the house... PM me if you need it.