Picked up a 1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD 6bolt w/ 4bolt rear for $900 today. Definitely a project for me.

Needs the interior detailed due to mold. Needs some interior panel TLC.

Transmission grinds. Needs syncros replaced.

New plugs: NGK-R

Went to replace the PCV valve and the piece that covers the threaded area broke... now I need a new valve cover... oh joy. Is $75 reasonable for one or does anyone have one I can have? It'd be greatly appreciated.

Experienced fuel-cut in 2nd gear at 5k RPM. This thing is the fastest car I've driven to date...

So I have my work cut out for me. Any comments/suggestions are welcome.

For those wondering, it's treydawg's Talon he had for sale.

That's a good year with the prime 6bolt/4 bolt.

Look at my Garage...show you to get in the 12's.

Look around for a valve cover, you should be able to get them on the board or ebay cheaper.

Excellent purchase!

I know. I'm hearing an awful lot about you Mr. Marcus.

Would ya mind heading over with Travis when we pull my tranny? Won't be for quite some time... gotta save up $800 for a damned rebuild from JacksTransmissions...


Also keeping an eye out for a Shephard or Jacks AWD tranny to buy on DSM Trader...

I think I am going to be working on this over the summer. It should be done sometime next Spring.

Plans are:

3" exhaust (including downpipe and test pipe). Apexi N1 or Bushur Racing.
Replacing rubber intake plumbing with solid. MBC and gauges. 190 rewired pump. Not sure on injector size (depends on hp goal), GM MAFT, external wastegate.

I figure 350hp to the wheels is a reasonable goal. 220 made me giddy until fuel cut at 5k...

Hopefully I can get around $4k saved up and go from there.

what turbo do you plan on running?

strip, street or open track car?

that information combined with your HP goals will help decide which way to go with all the modifications.

First and foremost it will be a DD... that's why I'm going to take so long and do everything right.

I might autocross it, but not until I get a nice suspension underneath. I have the wheels and tires from my Eclipse so I'm set there.

More than likely I'd like to get down to a 13 or maybe 12's if $$$ allows.

Going to pull the valve cover tonight and make sure nothing fell into the top of the motor when the valve cover broke. I need to jack it up and see if there is anything I can do to fix the exhaust rattle too. Maybe I'll just have a downpipe and nothing else

Sounds like you'll be wanting an evo3 16g and 650s with those goals. I wouldn't worry to much about the external WG though. Seems like a waste of $$ with a 350hp goal.

Yeah. I was thinking of either maxing out the 14b or going with the Evo 16G. That's what I had guess was a set of Denso 650's or something.

Changed the oil tonight and put some Rislone additive in it. Oil was watery and black. 10W30 Quaker State and Purolator Premium Plus filter (Didn't have a PureOne in stock)

So what should I do for a tranny to hold 350hp? Clutch? I have $350 right now and make $240/month.

Oh, and I started the car in 1st so I could use 1st. Got a little 3k RPM launch in the street..... I love this car

Even though Travis put the extended rod on the slave cylinder, it still seems like the threaded rod needs to be turned out... When I start the car in gear, it moves the car... and it's on a flat area...

I need to clean the interior throughout this week. It's all moldy and it smells HORRID in this thing...

The 14b can get you in the 12's, the 16g gets you there faster.

I would just rebuild the stock trans and call it a day. I would spend the money fixing up the rest of the car.

I have a ACT 2600 in mine, has over 100 strip passes on it and most of those on a 5500 launch stutterbox. I measured it last time it was out and it's only halfway worn.

Once I do a tranny rebuild it will be my DD.

$1300 for this sound good??
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/product_...9fe654299709492

I was told that since the syncros are so bad and have been ground (45 minute drive home...) that the hubs/sliders would need replacing...

I figure the extra $500 over the Economy rebuild (so I'd have a double syncro 1st and 2nd) would be worth it for the longetivity.

The stock clutch is great. It engages on the floor. Like I said, it moves the car... I need someone to depress the clutch when it's jacked up to see if the slave cylinder has any breathing room to push more... don't want to bend it or break anything... it just feels like it's not disengaging the clutch.

EDIT: The only difference between Economy and Value is:
New 3-4 hub
New 3-4 slider
4 Spider Center Diff w/ Upper Torrington Bearing
Double syncro 1st gear.

Is it even worth the extra $500? Since 3rd grinds, I assume I need the new hub and slider..

EDIT2: Should I stay away from eBay downpipes, test pipes, and other parts?? I found a 3" test-pipe for $75/shipped and a 3" downpipe for $155 What about the O2 sensor? Isn't that in the O2 housing right off the turbo? Would I still need a "catback" to finish it off? Still learning guys! Bear with me

Not sure of your exact goals and $$, but 13's are attainable with a mbc and exhaust, running race gas... pretty cheap. 12's are not expensive either, just a good fuel pump, clutch, and a few supporting mods...

Boy oh boy. I'm frustrated. Going through the interior cleaning out the mold and mildew. Went to turn the car around and it was idling kinda high. Cranked the wheel and gave it a couple revs to 3-4k (Idlin at 2k) and went to turn the car around. Went to straighten the wheel and: NO POWER STEERING.

Turns out the freaking belt came off. There was a bar chilling on the side too so my tensioner may have been missing or something. At this point, I'm ready to say screw it and just pull the motor out of it and go from there. It seems like something else goes wrong everytime I start the thing.


I love my DSM.


Oh, would it be alright for SloPny to rebuild the tranny? Haven't called for a price but ShepTrans said I would need the stage 3 to hold 400hp with some head room. :/ $2k for a rebuild isn't in my budget.

AHHH that's just the nature of the beast. As far as that exhaust goes, I recommend the APEXi N1 exhaust system. It is a little on the pricey side, but you will never regret the awesome deep rumble that that system makes and the added power you get from it as well. As far as the EBAY parts go, you usually get what you pay for. If it seems too good to be true, it is. So shop around, sometimes you can find a real bargain on Ebay, other times you just have to laugh and go on. ( Like when you see a Brembo brake kit for $500) My advice would be to stick with the tried and true companies and to go to their web sites to see who is an authorized dealer of their products. Machv.com is a great site for any stage of modification, and they have a page that shows you the recommended order to do your upgrades. Good luck with your TSI, and happy tuning!

-Matt

Paying $1200 for 12ft of 3" pipe and a few flanges? Yuckk...

Oh well. Is that belt problem a tough job to tackle for my first time working on the 4g63?

belt should be a breaze, prolly wasnt tight enough. the bracket thats hangin there is most likely just the little one that connects from the motor mount bracket to the bracket the PS pump sits in front of. one bolt and one nut!

I am running a 3" buschur racing exhaust system and love it! i wouldnt have something made, i would just save up and buy one of the good name brand systems.

Yeah looked at the belt with a buddy last night. On that bracket, there's just a nut on the bottom. :/ I need to look up how the belt goes on though. Got it around the power steering and alt. Doesn't seem big enough to go around much more... maybe one more accessory. :/ Oh well.

Hey Travis, I was told that my clutch isn't disengaging properly. Will it bend the slave cylinder rod if I adjust the clutch linkage under the dash?

I was running a 3" pressbent custom setup and it sounded good... go to neamore's exhaust in CreveTucky.. talk to Brian, he knows his shit and make you one hell of a good sounding exhaust pretty cheap too.

Sound isn't as important as flow. I didn't mind my Eclipse and not only was it obnoxious, but not that rumble that everyone loves.

I just want a 3" pipe that goes from the turbo to the bumper with an Apexi N1 muffler.

Only reason I see to go to a Megan Racing/Buschur/Apexi full exhaust is for the research/design and a few less decibels...

I've got a 2.5" magnaflow I'll let you have CHEAP. It's a cat-back. You can go 12s on a 2.5" PM if interested.

I have a valve cover that I will be taking off my GST sometime today... I honestly think $75 is to much for a regular old valve cover... So $55 and you can have it....

JMoushon, PM me. I can't send you a PM for some reason...

Thanks Dakota. I'll definitely consider it. How's the GST coming along?

Pretty good I just replaced most of my vac and emissions lines, put new plugs in her and put my valve cover on . Tomorrow I am going to replace the rest of the lines and possibly take her around the block...

Pretty good I just replaced most of my vac and emissions lines, put new plugs in her and put my valve cover on. I did the oil change yesterday. Tomorrow I am going to replace the rest of the lines and possibly take her around the block...

Hahah good to hear.

Well I got that belt on tonight. Just got a new one from Advanced for like $15..


So my exhaust rattle is: Heat shield around catalytic converter is loose so I needs some nuts/bolts to fix it, or just have my exhaust end at the dp. Need to remove the bolts from the flange tomorrow since they wouldn't budge tonight....

I went through my fair share of headaches with my DSM's power steering. Now that you have that belt on, be aware of it stretching a little bit here in the next couple of weeks. You will have to tighten it up a little bit more after that stretching.

not saying that sound is everything....

I think both are important... but I do have to say that my 3" pressbent system flowed good enough to see the occasional flames out the tip and mine was 3" from the turbo to the rear bumper with a straight through designed dynomax muffler.

sounded good too and with the 3" tip it didn't look or sound as outragious as a lot of the guys cars who have the giant 5 incher tips on them...

for a couple hundred I would say that Brian Neamore could hook you up pretty good... just go in and talk with him and tell him what you want.

I don't see the point in going out and spending $500+ on a exhaust... Just get a ebay 3" down pipe, 3" test pipe, and 3" cat back w/ n1 style muffler. for around $300-350... in the end it's just piping...

who said anything about a $500+ exhaust

Idk he said he wanted a apex-i n1 and the muffler alone is 250...

Well I think I'll just get a full 3" from parts on Ebay. 3" DP and TP... a catback on there is still like $450. Midpipe and muffler or anything else?

I might be able to get some funding help and start a REAL project. We'll have to wait and see.

I had a similar rattle in my exhaust on my old 93 GSX. Meineke just took a pair of pliers and yanked the shields off. Charged me $5 and I was on my way rattle-free.

you'll be just as happy and much cheaper if you just go to neamore's...

Hmm alright...

Anyways, played with the car tonight.

I can get the car into gear without grinding in all gears! If I put the brakes on and slip the clutch in like 2nd or 4th gear, I can smash the clutch and throw it into 1st or 3rd without grinding...

Also, you know how you can't put the shifter into gear unless the clutch is in or the syncs line up? Well, the syncs on 2nd and 4th keep things out without grinding, whereas the syncs for 1st and 3rd let me in to grind gears. So it IS my syncros...

Need to fix my tight shifter feel and get a syncro kit in the tranny. Will I need anything else replaced? $800 is just a little steep for a rebuild for me at the moment...

You won't really know what you need until you pull the trans apart.

If the syncros have been bad for a while, you'll most likely need some gears and the hubs and sliders. That's what happen to me.

Well I think I am going to do the economy rebuild from Jacks Transmissions or the Stage 1.5 from TRE. Gotta get the $$$ first.

Ok, so more fiddling today and I discovered another new find.

If I go from 2nd to 1st quickly I get no grind.

I'm going to put in some 85-140W Coastal Gear oil in and see if it helps since it's never been rebuilt.

Draining the old stuff and putting in some GM Synchromesh is the best thing you can do for it.

werd.... exactly what I was going to say

85-140W Coastal made a big difference. Extremely smooth shifts and much less grinding.

Will Syncromesh stop the grinding?

no thats what i put in it. royal purple syncromesh!!!!

Ok then. It was milky and there were small shavings on the drain plug so my tranny needs built for sure.

oh for sure!!!!

So today I:

Cleaned the K&N Filter and reoiled it
Pulled lower honeycomb on MAS.
Swapped front wheels.
Back wheels need a sledge to come off...
Reinstalled balance shaft belt

I should hopefully have the money for my tranny by the end of June. I think I may just save until Spring and build it then. I figure I should have $5k saved by Spring if I'm lucky.

Ok i think we've had enough talk about the tranny...........

why did you take the balance shaft belt off? actually you never said you were even doing a timing job!

Timing belt was fine. Balance shaft belt fell off when I revved to like 5500 so I replaced the belt.

UPDATE:

Went to go about putting in my head unit and new speakers and found out that I'm missing my passenger side window motor!

Heh. Window was being held with a toilet plunger and vice grips.

So here's my list so far of needs.

Valve cover
Carpet for hatch
window motor
(Getting all for $80)

Tranny rebuild (Emailed Jacks about the $800 Economy build)
Underbody cleaning.


Also, pulled the heat shield off my cat the other day. Much less annoying rattle. Have to find the remainder, but it was enough that I could hear my BOV in the car. I revved it to 6k once and it makes a whirring sound I never heard before. It sounds normal, and it was after I ran SeaFoam through it. Think it's just from the carbon buildup coming off? I'm going to do an oil change again soon, since I start it everyday and play with it.


Another couple tard questions.

1. When I turn the key to on before I start it, there's a bubbling sort of noise and if I let it do it for a couple minutes it stops. What and why? I can't locate the sound but it's in the engine bay.
2. Why does it take so long to start? I swapped batteries with my Eclipse and it's the same problem. Takes 3 or 4 seconds of cranking instead of instant like my Eclipse. Normal or what should I do to fix it?


Sorry guys. I'm anal. Not sure if that's good or bad when owning a DSM..

1- its not a bubbling noise your hearing its a relay on the fire wall. cant remember which one is the culprit but thats where the noise is coming from.

2- most likely its the coolant temp sensor. they cause the cars to run a little rich when the fail and that causes it to have a rough start. Plus the light was on which means its prolly a junk sensor.

I filled the overflow res and topped off the system and the light is gone...

I'll look into replacing the coolant temp sensor. Would the temp gauge still work properly?

It would probably work more accurately.

I meant would it work right even if the temp sensor was bad.