The dash guage and ECU use different sensors that are right next eachother. On the Tstat housing, the one with one wire is your guage, and the two wire goes to the ECU

Well, I'll look into it soon.

So it's not my shifter that is the problem. The cable itself is tight...

What do I need to do? I can't see crap as far as binding goes under the car or anything.

Going to get SS clutch and brake lines after the car is driveable (Read: New tranny and t-case)

So do you still have the 1.8L eclipse?

Yeah. It's for sale. $2500 OBO.

Yeehaw!

Picked up the Punishment Racing intercooler from Travis along with other tidbits (Lights, mbc, valve cover, window motor, etc.)

Pulled the entire intake from the turbo back out. I just need to figure out how to get the intercooler on.

My buddy and I went to bolt the bottom brackets to the bottom and the bolt head broke off

I think we must have broken 20 bolt heads last night. Ugh. Oh well, I just have to take an Easy Out and have at it...

so did u figure everything out?

Getting closer. I quit around 11:30. Worked at my dad's friend's house yesteray. Made $100.

I'll be done sooner or later.

update?

Nah. It's been set to the backburner. I had finals this week (Fri, Mon, Tue) and now I'm in the process of putting my audio setup in the Cavalier.

I need a new harness that plugs directly into the HU. Mine's buggered, and I can't find one as of yet. :/

So I will have some cash to burn in the next few weeks and I want to get ahold of some parts before I get the intercooler in.

I'm looking for something in the area of 400hp out of this car. What do I need?

Right now I'm looking at:
Buschur 3" Turboback Exhaust w/ O2 eliminator housing
EvoIII 16G Fully ported
SBR Tubular ported header
Turbosmart 38mm wastegate


I would guess that that would be a good way to start on my 400hp goal. This car won't be moving for quite a while, since it needs a tranny so I figure I will keep looking for a used one while I build it up.

What kind of injector size am I looking at? Would a set of AMS 580's get me there or do I need to be looking for something more like 660's or 750's?

Cams are on the list but not necessarily a priority yet, but I'm looking at 272's unless the 264's are all that is necessary.

I'm prowling DSMTalk as well in between working 45 hours a week so I'm trying to pick up on stuff but your help would be much appreciated!

If it were me, I would go with
EVO316g
650-720cc injectors
2g exhuast manifold
2g O2 housing
SAFC2
2g MAF or MAFT and 3" GM maf
3" exhaust of your choice


Use the internal wastegate, it'll do the job just fine. A pretty header is just pretty, but not real functional for your goal. I've always looked for the most power for my buck. If pretty under the hood is what you're looking for, then that's another story. Keep reading the archives at DSMTalk. I did the same when I was new. There's a lot of good info there.

I don't think You are going to get 400awhp out of a 16g.... You mite want something bigger...

50 trim or 20g with supporting mods and link....

I guess that one depends on what you mean by horsepower too. Are we talking wheel horsepower or crank horsepower? They say that 400whp is possible on an evo3 16g, but 350 is a much more realistic number. That being said, 350whp is roughly 422 crank horses.

Well, if I stayed closer to a stock power number (Like 300-350) then it'd be easier on the tranny.

I just wish that tranny rebuilds weren't so expensive (ie $1500)

Something to consider there. 350whp is well over double what your car made out of the factory.

195 * .83 = 162whp

The coolest thing about that is that the stock 14b has dyno'd 300whp with only light mods, and well more on track only cars running air/water intercoolers.

Wait.

Rephrase that last part.

I'd have to run a air/water intercooler (crammed full of ice I reckon) and light mods for 300hp out of the 14b?


300hp seems to be my first goal. I'm going to have the $$$ for a tranny in about 3 weeks ($1200+~$600-$1000) so I would like to get on track with my project in the next week or two to get a general idea.

If I stick with the 14B, would I be best off to rebuild it?
I have a Punishment Racing FMIC at the moment, as well as a MBC.

So what am I lookin at for 300hp?


Gauges (Boost but what else is necessary?)
Fuel injectors (Would 550's from AMS do me or am I looking at more in the way of 600+?)
Walbro 255lph fuel pump and do the rewire.
Turboback 3" with O2 delete and cat delete
3" mandrel bent tube with silicon fittings for an intake. Would it work? Would the turbo be too hot for the silicon couplers?
2G Header


What should I be looking for in a tranny for 300hp? Right now I'm looking at the DevoTuning rebuild for $800 since it replaces all syncros.

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86149

Those are the best dyno numbers you'll get from a 14b. He runs a 12.00 with it.

I would concentrate on getting the trans fixed. All your other mods are useless if the trans is broke and it won't run. A stock trans will take you to the 11's. How fast do you want to go??

See my garage...a 14b can take you to the 12's. I'm currently running 12.4's to 12.8's depending on the weather at 17-18 psi. Supra SMIC, 550's, 2 1/2" intake and exhaust piping and 2g exhaust and O2 housings. Pretty simple stuff.

12's would be plenty fast I think.

I found a rebuild locally for $800.

Well, locally... 3 hours north at DevoTuning.

I have $1100 right now. I shot them an email asking a worst case scenario so I know what kind of $$$ I need to have to spend before I drop it off up there.

One thing I always do with shops is ask for the broken parts back. It tends to keep places honest. Unless there's a core charge involved with the part you're getting fixed, a good shop won't hae any problems giving you the broken stuff back or at least showing you the components they need to keep for cores.

I'm not saying there's anything bad about Devotuning, just a general statement.

I'm like a woman apparently...

I didn't notice the Specials page at TRE. Looks like they have trannies that don't require a core.

Now, is the 4 spider that much better than the 2 spider? It's an extra $350 so it would take another 2 weeks to pay for it, but if it's worth it then I will go with that.

91-94 AWD

1991-94 AWD STAGE 1 This transmission features: glass beaded case, OEM gear ratios, double synchro 2nd gear, HD 3/4 gearset, 2 spider center differential w/ Torrington bearing and a 23 spline output shaft. SPECIAL PRICE $1000 no core required.

1991-94 AWD STAGE 1 This transmission features: glass beaded case, OEM gear ratios, double synchro 2nd gear, HD 3/4 gearset, 4 spider center differential w/ Torrington bearing and a 23 spline output shaft. SPECIAL PRICE $1350 no core required.

1991-94 AWD STAGE 2 This transmission features: glass beaded case, OEM gear ratios, double synchro 2nd gear, HD 3/4 gearset, 4 spider center differential w/ Torrington bearing, RIPGRIP limited slip front diff, and a 23 spline output shaft. SPECIAL PRICE $1600 no core required.

1991-94 AWD STAGE 2 This transmission features: glass beaded case, OEM gear ratios, double synchro 2nd gear, HD 3/4 gearset, TRE spooled center differential and a 23 spline output shaft. SPECIAL PRICE $1250 no core required.

1991-94 AWD STAGE 3 This transmission features: shot peened gears, glass beaded case, EVO-III 1st gear, double synchro 2nd gear, EVO-III double synchro close ratio 3rd/4th gearset, 4 spider center differential w/ Torrington bearing and a 23 spline output shaft. SPECIAL PRICE $2500 no core required.

I would get the best transmission you can afford. But if you spend all your cash on a $2500 trans, you may not have the cash to get it rolling. And that's where the fun is.

Like I said a good stock trans will get you in the 11's, I've got probably 150+ drag strip runs on my stock rebuild (new sycros and a couple gears) with no issues.

Don't forget to invest in a decent clutch, that will play an important role in getting the power to the ground.

Well, I'm going to probably spend $1300 on the 4 spider Stage 1.

Or $1250 on the TRE Spooled Stage 2. Not sure. What does the spool do?

(Sorry, on lunch break so short on time. Lol. )

I beleive the spool will lock the drive between the front and rear drive wheels. There will be no compensation for slippage between the front drive wheels and the rear.

For street driving stick with the 4 spider instead of the spool. The spider will deliver the same power that the spool will and it will be invisible to you. The spool will cause the tires to chirp and lock in slow tight turns like when you are in a parking lot. If you want to hear what it sounds like your more than welcome to take a ride in my spooled Talon.

It'd be nice to take a ride in a 11 second Talon Marcus. Where are you located? Washburn right?

Just shine the Mitsu logo on a cloud from a spotlight....

The Talon will arrive to save the day








It's like calling Batman, but at least the Talon's power is real....

well most of the time, when she's not erasing chips for fun

Hah

Does anyone know how the shipping service works for TRE?

Do I have to pay for S&H? I can't get a straight answer from Jon at the moment :[

I'm planning on selling my core to him for $400 and getting the $1600 specials tranny with the RIPGRIP, double 2nd, 3rd and 4th HD, and the 4 spider torrington transfer case.

Yeah I'm in Washburn. I'll be around this weekend if you want to get together, but I'll be out of town for the next week. PM me and I can send you directions and a phone number.

I've never sent Jon a core so I don't know how that shipping works. All the new EVOIII parts in my transmission are from Jon and he just added shipping to the total bill. I've been patient with Jon when he didn't always have time to communicate and he has taken care of me every time. Tell him your from DSMCentral and that we recommended you go there.

The Bat signal...

Will do mate.


Going to start removing things to get the tranny out. Batt and intake are already out. Exhaust is to come off next.

I have the $$$ for the Stage 2 trans for $1550. My dad's buddy is going to help me pull the tranny and reinstall the new one. I'm pumped. Should have the FMIC and trans and everything in by the time school starts. Gotta get the passenger side window motor in (or buy a new one.. bleh) as well.

Good to hear! I can't wait until I have all the goodies for mine

UPDATE!!


I got in touch with Jon and got the trans tagged for me. I should be meeting him in Joliet to pick it up next weekend.

Gotta get started on dropping the old trans I guess.

Need to find a ACT 2600 clutch though.

sounds like your gonna turn that car into a nice lil ride. and only have a few G's in it.

Good luck on the removal and install of the old and new tranny. Its not to bad and your better off learning to do it instead of having someone else do it. ( NOt saying your gonna have to do it over and over or anything ).

Over and over? Lol depends on how many Talons I buy!


So far I have a pretty rough plan.

11-12 second 1/4 car

350-450hp
Evo III 16G
3" turboback w/ open dump
Punishment Racing FMIC (Have it already)
Aluminum rad and slim fan
Remove AC


Plenty of other things. i'll be keeping it mostly stock until I can pull it and rebuild the motor. Remove balance shafts and all that. She won't be moving for a while I reckon. How hard is it to remove balance shafts?

I'd probably do the balance shaft removal if I was going in for a timing belt anyway, but if not I would wait on it.

Well it's got like 90k on it so I should probably do the timing belt anyways.

Man, I wish E85 would drop back down. Couple months ago it was like $2/gallon at Thornton's. It's like $3.50 now...

Mitsu recommends 60K on timing belts.... if yours is at 90k then you are running on borrowed time... change that thing or you will find out what belt valves are all about.

Haha.


You mean it's not good for piston-valve contact?


I should say that it looks like an old belt but I really don't know. I'd have to inspect it more closely...

The belt won't look bad until its about 100 miles from snaping. Replace it before its to late!

I used and really liked the Greddy Kevlar belt I got from Buschur Racing, they gave me a great price too... and while you are there get a new tensioner (I prefer the one from the Mitsu dealer) and swap in a new water pump...

Napa has a good pump that is a positive displacement pump that flows much more than the stock type impeller pump... the only thing is with that you gotta make sure you check out every inch of your cooling system... the extra volume will definately show you the weak points of your old 90K mile system... but on the plus side you will not have to worry about not having enough to keep that thing cool.

My eyes and desires are bigger than my wallet.


The car is going to sit for quite a while.

I'm looking to get:
Aluminum Rad
All new high pressure coolant hoses, replace the thermostat with a lower temp one as well.
Aftermarket fan.
Ditch the A/C.
Greddy Timing belt.
I get a discount on the NAPA pump because I work there!


I'm going to remove ABS. Drop some weight, stainless brake lines at the same time, good stuff. Going to do a nice set of brakes front and rear as well.

I figure the order of operation will be:
Free Weight reduction and maintenance.
Little things to open up engine bay (ABS, batt relocation, ditch A/C)
Brakes.
Suspension
Power.



We'll have to wait and see. I have a rusted out passenger rear quarter. it's at the edge above the wheel well and is missing some metal as well. How would I go about fixing this correctly? I'll probably just primer it and get some nice white paint to paint it.

Sometimes it's past the point of fixing cheaply and you'll have to either: A) Replace the whole thing (Not the car, the panel) Cut the rusted area off so it won't spread and re-attach some new metal or what-have-you in it's place. But then again I dont know what kinda shape it's in. Or if your cheap, like me, just remove as much as the rust as possible and paint over it. That Greddy belt is a good one BTW.

Yeah. I'm considering just removing metal and rounding it out to make it look alright. Just gotta go fast.

I already got a SRT 4 talkin smack!

really think removing the A/C all the way through....

you will really only lose about 15lbs of total weight, you can do like I did and remove the belt at the track, but I loved how cold my A/C was and really made the car a versitile driver.
I especially miss the A/C now that I have the Stang that does not have A/C...

Well, my buddy and I took a stab at it all day today. Started at around 11:00 AM and worked and made part runs and stuff all day today.

At around 6:30 it started with all vacuum hooked up, except wastegate solenoid (D'oh!) and we gave her some revs to hear the BOV to atmosphere. Lots of laughs from that.


Got my trans from Jon Ripple Friday. Sat and shot the bird with him for a couple hours and left to return home.

Anyways, we were going to do the trans but instead we put the intercooler in and hooked her all up. Fuel cut is nasty at around 5k RPM. I need to get my intake sealed up but it's easier to ask questions with pictures.

Making runs up and down my buddy's road to get the ECU used to the IC, the car died.

Like, 4k RPM launch (New clutch and trans going in, slipped nice on launch and was nice to it) and ran it through 1st, caught 2nd and all of a sudden I heard PSSSHHHh and no power. At all.


Crank crank crank... all belts turn. Timing is good. Marks line up.

So we pull the valve cover. Oh dear.


I have pics but my buddy has to post them. He has the cam. All I can say is that all 8 rocker arms on the intake side popped. I hear a clacking on the last run and a little less power so this must have been a slow occurance. Slight scoring on a couple cam lobes which can be wetsanded out I assume? Good time for new plugs and wires, especially wires which started coming apart on me...


Well, that's the end of my dilemmas for this post. Gotta start saving for my top end. 272 cams, 2G lifters, couple other things.

Pics worth a thousand words?

not sure why your "rockers" (properly called followers on a DSM) popped off, but if you need a head and cams, I have a '93 head with '93 cams from a AWD here at the house... PM me if you need it.