Turbo Swap Woes Options

[Turbo Tension]

Well the car is running, very strongly too 8) However I have three things left to take care of that are annoying.

-My tap in the vacuum lines for a boost gauge is no longer sealing right and the focker howls like a banshee between -10 and 3psi

-Both turbos were smoking very heavily (normal I'm told for new turbos) but now the back one seems to persist...possible oil leak :shock:

-I managed to be ULTRA SLICK and somehow disrupt the harness on my oil pressure sending unit so I gotta dig under the car and check to see if I managed to unplug it with the damn rear heat shield.

All of these are minor, and the car is running STRONG!!!!!

[Turbo Tension]

I used this, it helps a lot.

http://www.team3s.com/FAQturboswap.htm

However, I have a few warnings, the front O2 housing stay is a BITCH, no joke. The studs are in the turbo exhaust housing, and you have to slide the O2 housing off, but the stay is there holding it on. I found that I undid it, and then just left all that stuff lose while taking the Front turbo off the rest of the way, once it is off, you can move the turbo towards the passenger side, and all that shit comes off very easy.

You'll need someone with a ton of versatile tools. 10,12, and 14mm closed end wratchets are ESSENTIAL in this, especially in removing heat shields. ALso, 1/2 inch drives are ESSENTIAL as every bolt and nut on your turbos will be frozen, no shit.

This is not necessary - "Optional: In order to remove the Turbo Oil Feed Line you must remove the drive belt, alternator, dipstick guide, AC compressor, tensioner bracket, and AC compressor bracket."