Fuel Pump Install Help Options

[turbohcar]

Insert random curse words of your choosing here.......

Now, before you say "Vfaq this, PB Blaster that", there are a few things that you should know. I performed this install(removal actually) per the instructions listed on Vfaq.com. Everything was moving according to plan. I had PB Blastered the fuel line off and on all week and was hoping to do something this weekend. I finally got the 14mm line wrench for the fuel line and went to town tonight. First off, the fuel line came off EASY!!! I was surprised. There is rust on top of this fuel tank like you wouldn't believe. Rust that has rusted on top of rust. As I eagerly finish that up I start on the fuel pump assembly bolts (the six little ones) that hold it onto the fuel tank. Here's where the trouble begins. I broke the first one off. Clean off flush with the assembly. Here's where the curse words go. Not only did I break that one off, two others broke as well. The other three came off fine without trouble. So, now I have a problem. I can't put the pump assembly back in with the new pump until I figure out how I'm going to fix this.

I guess my query comes down to this:

Are those studs replaceable or do I need to buy a new fuel tank?

Black92TSiAWD, I know you've got a spare fuel tank, or used to, if you could please look and see if those studs are pressed in or if they are brazed in. I would much appreciate it.

If I do have to go the tank route it's not a big deal, just frustrating. Who would have thought that the hardest part of the whole ordeal would have been those six little bolts?

[Taxiwardance]

I did the same thing to my 92 last year. Broke/stripped 3 bolts removing that damn thing. But to get the pump out I had a friend stand behind me with a fire extinguisher while I got out the angle grinder and tried to kill myself by grinding all 3 to the plate on the pump assembly . When I was done I cleaned it like crazy and then jb welded it back into place, then poured rtv all over. If you ever need to remove it probably not a good idea though. I had to use a pry bar when I parted my car out and the assembly and tank were garbage when I was through! Got my walbro back in new condition though. Good thing I didn’t have my welder back then Although that was my “home Depot” car and my 94 will have everything done right so kind of depend on how you look at it. and my rant is pretty much useless because I really have no idea on if the bolts can be replaced or if you need a new tank.

Everything starts so simple but by the time your ready for 1 upgrade your car helps you along with 10 others.

[Hult250R]

2 or 3 of mine broke too when I did mine, I put a film of RTV on the gasket before I put the pump back in and its been fine ever since with a few missing studs, no leaks or anything.
I filled up the tank a couple days after and drove it around with the access panel off for a while to make sure it wasnt leaking.

[turbohcar]

Hmmm.....I'm half tempted to try the RTV route. Mainly I suppose for the time's sake and the fact that two of the ones that are still in tact are directly across from each other.

Anybody else have any objections/ideas?

[black92_tsi_awd]

I broke one or two of my bolts on the install too. I'd go look but the hatch is full of engine parts.

I just checked the extra tank in my shed (it still has all 6 studs)...the studs look like they're part of the ring welded to the top of the tank. Wouldn't be too easy to replace. I suppose you could drill through the ring and into the tank and JB weld the new studs in. Would have to clean it pretty well.

If you're lucky and the remaining 3 bolts are in a triangle pattern, it'll probably be OK with some RTV.

[Hult250R]

I was actually thinking about drilling the broken studs out of mine and pop-riveting the ones that broke.
It would pretty much be a permanent thing, (Unless you wanted to fish out the rivet parts when you drilled them out to get em off) But how often do you replace a fuel pump??

[BudmannG]

Drill them out and get a self tapping bolt. The ones in the blue talon did the same thing as yours. It leaked until I drilled it and put bolts in.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Bud...that's a damn good idea. Simple and effective.

[turbohcar]

I like that idea a little better Budmann. I'll try to come up with something similar. What size bolt did you use Bud?

[BudmannG]

Make sure the self tappers don't go into the tank. If you can catch the first lip only that would be best and keeps the shavings out of the tank. Under a inch is what I got.

[black92_tsi_awd]

So....what did you end up doing turbohcar??

[turbohcar]

I bought some bolts that may fit at Lowes yesterday. I haven't had time to try them out yet though. I also ordered a new fuel pump housing gasket for it as well so I dont' have to go the silicone route. I'll post my results here when I get it done.

[fastclipse82]

the black rtv doesnt get hard and brittle with being exposed to gasoline? Not saying not to use it, im just curious, cause I know alot of times, rubber gaskets will brittle away over time being exposed to gasoline. I would try gas tank weld or JB stick for longevity sake. Its made to not get brittle after being soaked with gasoline.

[Mitsu 77]

Drill them out and get a self tapping bolt. The ones in the blue talon did the same thing as yours. It leaked until I drilled it and put bolts in.

won't that put hot metal shavings into the tank?

[turbohcar]

If you're careful, the metal shavings can be kept at a minimum. Any that do get into the tank will be drained with the rest of the gasoline that's left in the tank when I drain it.

[Mitsu 77]

Just a thought,

maybe after the tank is drained a flush with lacker thinner will help get any stragalers left behind, an added plus is that the thinner is flammable so the engine will burn it as usual.

If it helps you can have the tank out of my gsx for 20....just to save you the hassel.

[BudmannG]

If you drill it slow and steady and a shot of 3 in 1 you can do it with out hot shavings. I also put a rag in the tank to keep out the shavings, that help out alot in clean up.

[turbohcar]

I was also thinking of doing something similar Budmann only using some newspaper and electrical tape instead (electrical tape because it's thinner width wise). That way everthing is covered except for the hole I'm drilling itself. I'll update later today. I plan on trying it here in an hour or so.

[turbohcar]

Fuel pump modifications are complete. I simply used three self-tapping, chemical treated (Mitsubishi OE) bolts. I drilled out the holes where the studs are supposed to go by reinserting the fuel pump housing back into the tank and using the top of the housing as a template. I'm also on my way this afternoon for a new rubber housing gasket to go with it. I used a dremel and a sand paper roll to take the remaining rust on the housing. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward. I test fit the bolts in the tank holes and made sure they fit. I am also going to shoot some silicone into the holes where the self-tappers go to make sure that it gets a good seal.

Overall, there was a bit of shavings that made it into the tank but not enough to make a big deal about. Nothing a good tank flush can't fix.

BTW, the kit that came with my Walbro makes installation a breeze. The pump sits straight up and down and uses the same bracket as the stocker. Some slight notching of the spacer was necessary but very easy. I also reused the pump filter retaining clip as it provided a much firmer fit than the one supplied. All I need to do now is to wire up the connections, flush the tank, and put it all back together. The fuel line from tank to filter is up next. I'll keep you all up to date with that too.

[black92_tsi_awd]

You running braided line up to the fuel filter?