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> the GSX is getting hot, over heating
favre95
post Apr 11 2003, 09:34 AM
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Todd...I got an email back from chris at mitsu...here it is

I will sell it for $90.80 plus tax and i have one in stock. List is $121.07. 25% disc

So....hope that is a good price for ya. Back when I worked there I was only able to buy it for 80 bucks. So you really arn't paying that much more than what I paid for mine
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Super16G
post Apr 13 2003, 08:57 AM
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If the water pump was bad it would leak or make noise inside its housing (wobble wobble) I'm not dismissing having to replace it but I cant justify tearing into this thing when I'm not seeing leakage or noise....
Anyone heard of a way to measure your flow rate?
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Super16G
post Apr 18 2003, 10:36 AM
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The C&R radiator flows 3 more gallons then stock so I'd say that it is working fine. So I went ahead and bought a water Pump (thanks Jake) and I'm gonna try to tackle that this weekend. Anyone have any helpfull hints on this install?
Wish us luck!!!!
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AWD DSM 1
post Apr 18 2003, 11:57 AM
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My dad had a heater core clog up on his s-10 this winter. Have you had the cooling system flushed lately? Water pump would also be a likely canidate.


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Super16G
post May 4 2003, 12:22 PM
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New water pump is on and the problem still exists.. A friend said he had a problem with a partially clogged heater core also and it had the same symptoms.So I'm gonna by pass it and see what happens....I'm not rulling out a head gasket issue just trying to take care of the simplier things.
1g in a 2g swapped motor+changing water pump = not fun
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KOU In3
post May 4 2003, 10:42 PM
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I know this is a basic one that you've probably already ruled out but have you checked to make sure that the lower radiator hose isn't collapsing on you?


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Super16G
post May 7 2003, 06:39 PM
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we did a compression test ....180 on all cylinders
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Turbo Tension
post May 7 2003, 07:47 PM
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Shit! What now?!!? Thermostat malfunction? Honestly I don't know shit about coolant systems, so this is all very interesting to me. Any other clue as to what it could be?

unsure.gif unsure.gif


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Super16G
post May 23 2003, 01:04 PM
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Retorqued the head to 62ftpnds and it kinda seemed to help now my ? is Should I torque it to the higher torque level instead of the minimum cause of the higher compression pistons???
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AWD DSM 1
post May 23 2003, 01:26 PM
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Are you using ARP head studs? I thought that the instructions said to torque the ARP's to 75 or 80 ft lbs. I don't quite understand how that would make your car run any cooler though. blink.gif


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Super16G
post May 23 2003, 04:08 PM
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"tiny bubbles......In my coolant system.....Doesnt make me happy.....makes me wine....."
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Super16G
post Jun 27 2003, 09:54 AM
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Finally got the Black Bitch apart and it is official....We had a bad head gasket..
It's all back together and running and appears to behaving itself. Thanks for any and all the help I got ...Hope to see some people this weekend. biggrin.gif
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wortdog
post Jun 27 2003, 06:02 PM
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Man, that's probably what's wrong with mine, too. mad.gif

Oh well, I can only wait until I get the chance to do a leakdown test. unsure.gif

Glad to hear your black beauty is running good now! biggrin.gif


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Booztd 3
post Jun 29 2003, 01:29 AM
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super16--

glad you got it figured out. Im still having probsl with my eclipse that my bro has been ironing out. The compression on all cylinders still reads sub 80's or so I believe, and the car will only run with the timing on the cam angle sensor all the way advanced. And even when it runs the car will not stay idle , you must keep the R's above 1400 or so. Im going to look into the ECU and some stuff like that , but do you guys have any idea?

Edit:--The car ran itnermittenly fine before we tore into it (problem was bad headgasket as well--car would heat up ALOT under boost and just kept breaking radiator hoses due to pressurization of the cooling system) The head was 16/1000 off so we had it milled and they had to shave the valves just a hair--This would not be affecting my compression any would it? And i made sure to torque down the head to the 62 or better ft/lbs


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Super16G
post Jun 30 2003, 10:41 AM
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What head gasket did you use?
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awd4kicks
post Jun 30 2003, 10:50 AM
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Umm...maybe I'm not remembering this right, (and I don't have a repair manual in front of me) but aren't the stock head bolts supposed to be torqued to 120ft/lb's or something in that range. If you have ARP head studs I beleieve the torque range is in th 80ft/lb. rande using their molly lube.

My stated torque values definitely need to be verified, but 62 seems very low. You might want to double check that.


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Super16G
post Jun 30 2003, 08:59 PM
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I thought it was 62 - 74?????? Anywho I posted the problem over at dsmtuner and this is the thread and the responses http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread...7447#post537447
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awd4kicks
post Jul 1 2003, 12:11 PM
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Maybe I've had too much crack... I'll have to recheck. I know that Darryl torques his ARP's over 100ft/lb's, but then he's running 30 lb's of boost too.

Although this may have been covered in the other thread, another thing to keep in mind is the stock head bolts after 1992 are the stretch type, and should be replaced when replacing the head or gasket. That is unless you measure them to make sure they are still within tollerance. From what I hear it's no more expensive to buy the better ARP studs than the stock stretch bolts.


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wortdog
post Jul 1 2003, 01:20 PM
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In a thread on Dsmtalk, someone said that ARP recommends 100 ft-lbs when using their lube and 120 ft-lbs when using plain motor oil. I'm still trying to figure out how high I can go with stock headbolts to try and fix my problem. I guess until one breaks. ph34r.gif


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Super16G
post Jul 1 2003, 01:57 PM
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I was referring to the stock torque to yeilds smile.gif 62-74? smile.gif
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