The TALON, Running Project Report Options

[awd4kicks]

Yeah, no kidding fellas! It's been a strange ride.

[awd4kicks]

Running clean on meth-o-lyene! Yeah it doesn't exist but it ryhmes.

Seriously, put some new batteries in my hungry Palm logger and found that even on a HOT and humid afteroon like yesterday I am now able to run 24.5psi with no more than a peak of 6 counts of knock! This morning in the cooler weather, it was more like 0-1 counts and this is in third and forth. Pretty sweet.

The new street ship from NCGalant, the new wires, and all the pre-race work on the Talon have paid off to a good extent with the meth injection on!

So it should be a low 12 car on the street. with the potential of 11's with a boost repair and/or a transmission upgrade.

Here's something to chew on... If I'm not reaching more than 24.5 psi no matter what, but I can hear the external dump open when running that psi what goes through your mind? I may need to take care of more boost leaks, but I think I know the quick answer to more boost!

[ncgalant]

If you recall I said that at the track Good to hear she's running well. I think we've finally gotten to a more final chip for you. Now if you can just get the system to hold boost and your external dump to stay closed to 35psi or so we'll be in business.

[awd4kicks]

If you recall I said that at the track 

Of which part of the discussion are you referring?

But, yes I'm glad things are coming together and still running.

Basically I had previously removed the boost signal from the top of the waste gate when it had a torn boot inside. The lack of boost pressure on top of the waste gate is leaving the spring to do all the work. I am confident that once I add the boost reference back to the top of the wastegate I will be able to hit any level of boost that this turbo is capable of making.

If you were referring to this waste gate issue at the track NC, I wish that you would have been more clear or persuasive. Had I thought about this, I would have slapped a boost reference hose on the waste gate in 5 minutes and cranked it up!

[turbohcar]

If you were referring to this waste gate issue at the track NC, I wish that you would have been more clear or persuasive. Had I thought about this, I would have slapped a boost reference hose on the waste gate in 5 minutes and cranked it up!

Isn't this the type of thinking that got you into trouble before????

[awd4kicks]

Umm, no. Faulty parts, Faulty assembly, fatigued parts from numerous experimental trials, etc., caused the other catastrophies. I have never gotten a chance to take the stroker experiments down the track with the boost cranked up or at all for that matter.

Don't worry Turbohcar. Although, I am using the Talon as a DD it is built for up to 700hp, and I'm not even close to that yet.

On the otherhand, I found that my older Alternator must not have liked the 9000 to 9500 RPM's or the oil splatter from the broken oil cooler hose. The bolts began to back out, and one on the inside has backed out and is digging into the cooling fins.

I'm going through a ton of maintenance crap here lately.

Good news is that I now have the Waste gate hooked up to handle higher boost. I may not be able to check the new boost level's until I repair or replace the alternator though.

[awd4kicks]

I've been chasing some boost leaks and am now waiting for a new throttle body gasket.

However, i feel that I have a problem other than that. Then again I may be missing something simple. Any brainstorming ideas on why I am hitting fuel cut when boost begins to come on may be helpful. I watch the logger and the air flow goes up evenly to just over 400 then I see 1606 and bam...brick wall. I don't think the boost leaks are causing this. I just don't feel that I'm thinking clearly about it right now.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Don't you have fuel cut removed in the eprom? Maybe I don't fully understand, but I thought once you take it out of the programming, you can not longer hit fuel cut. Or does the programming just delay it??

[natedogg]

I was thinking the same thing. My dsmlink removes the fuel cut algorithm and I run well over 1600 hz of airflow.

[wortdog]

Could be a bad MAF if its shooting straight from 400 to 1606 in one frame. Did NC put in the code patch that cuts the displayed Hz in half? I find that to be really helpful for diagnosing MAF problems.

[ncgalant]

Fuel cut has been eliminated completely. The feature no longer exists. I did not put double hz in there because it was a useless feature. He is able to peg 3200hz by 4000 rpms. The jump from 400 to 1600 is probably because the turbo comes up so fast and so hard that the logger isn't catching the data inbetween.

My guess for your symptoms would be spark blowout. With a stock ignition running over 26psi I would think your gap would need to be nonexistant.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Looks like someone will be in the market for a MSD ignition....

[wortdog]

Another thought is that I've heard of people with a translator box having momentary dropouts of the airflow signal on high hp cars. You might try doing a 4x cut in logged airflow, just so you can double check it since WOT fueling is completely dependent on this sensor working properly. Its a fairly rare problem though.

I had a 1G Maf dropping out on me that I didn't figure out for almost half a year. It felt exactly like an ignition problem. 18-19 psi the car would run smoothly to redline, 21 psi the car would start stuttering above 5k, and at 20psi it was weather dependent, cool weather it would stutter, warm weather no problem. I tried swapping plugs, wires, coils, power transistors, ecus, and injectors before the MAF because it really felt like an ignition problem.

[ncgalant]

I'll try to get that chip for you on saturday

[awd4kicks]

Thanks for the input so far guys.

It's not spark blow-out at this point. I don't even get into any substantial boost when this happens. It feels like an intercooler pipe blows each time this happens.

[awd4kicks]

Thanks Spy, I am currently running a 3.5" MAF and couplings though.

I will most likely get the new TB gaskets on tonight and do some more testing. There is something going on electrically which may be playing a part in this.

There were a few instances where I noticed the radio going quiet for a second when I drove over the bump to enter my garage. Bad connection? Possibly.

After the race I noticed three warning lights on the dash randomly flashing on and off simultaneously like a bad connection might cause. No other symptomes were noticable so I haven't put a lot of time into worrying about it.

After that I found that all the bolts in my alternator had worked themselves out after the 9000+ RPM runs at Cordova. When I replaced the alternator I found that the negative battery post spins freely in my dry-cell battery. It doesn't pull out or push in, but it does turn...bad connection? Possibly.

After I installed my Advance rebuilt 75 amp Alternator I noticed that the headlights would flare up to a high level of brightness occasionally while driving at night. Bad voltage regulator in the new alternator or is the ground post in the battery causing this? Dunno.

So you see I have some checking to do. Not to mention I always wonder about the ECU wiring everytime I pull the ECU out of it's mount. Then there is the MAF-T and the MAF to wonder about. Is anyof this causing the brick wall sensation? I don't know that either.

Any further ideas would be welcomed, but I'm sure it's going to come down to electrical diagnosis.

[awd4kicks]

Hahaha...that would be nice, but then I would be the 'self indulgent wiener' that I have been opposed to for the last seven years.

[haunter]

Hahaha...that would be nice, but then I would be the 'self indulgent wiener' that I have been opposed to for the last seven years.

so get a vintage one, then you are a connoisseur

[awd4kicks]

[natedogg]

Kinda does sound like a bad voltage regulator. I had the same surging problem fixed with a new alternator. Mine went bad because it got wet.

Real handy that this is happening on an alternator you just bought...