Project Black Golfball-plans for 2007 Options

[black92_tsi_awd]

Thanks Kicks...I cross my fingers and say a little prayer she stays together before each trip to the track!

Seriuosly though, the setup isn't on the edge or anything so I think that help it pile up the track runs. So far I have 31 runs in this year.

I did order my KYB ABX's yesterday, should be here this week! Hopefully my 60's will drop some, or at least get rid of the bucking broncro look

[black92_tsi_awd]

Started on the strut install. Here's how you know your struts are blown...you compress them and they shoot out all their fluid!!



Assembled rears





I picked up new bumpstop from Advance but the thing is huge compared to the stock one (left)


Is the stock one supposed to be that small? Or is just smashed to hell?

[turbohcar]

Yeah, the stocker isn't supposed to look like that. Make sure to cut the bumpstops down where KYB suggests in the instructions or you'll be riding on them.

[black92_tsi_awd]

I can't make head or tails out of the KYB instructions...there in the universal "picture" lauguage. All it says in words is not to cut bumpstops more than 1/2.

Should I just cut it down past the top hump?

[turbohcar]

Wait a sec.... you're using stock springs though right? With stock springs they should be alright. The front bellows I bought at Advance came with the bumpstop integrated into them. You don't need to cut the bumpstops unless you're going with a lowered ride height. I got confused because I did my Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs at the same time.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Yep, stock ride height. I got Strut Mate brand boots at Advance. The bump stop is seperate from the boot. The boot is nice rubber really flexible.

Are the stock bump stops that tall through? Looking at the one stock assembled front strut, it looks like I'll only have about 3" off suspension travel.

[turbohcar]

It should be the same height, but compare them to make sure.

[awd4kicks]

Personally I would cut it past the first hump. That bump stop is way too big.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Both bumpstops are pretty well smashed to hell, the other one is in a little better condition. When I get that one diassembled I'll probably cut it based on that stop.

Thanks guys.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Here's the trimmed bumpstop:


Fronts done:


One of the crew working:

She's getting pretty good at getting tools, jackstands, turning on the compressor etc!!

Here's a couple of shots of the driveshaft loop I modified and added at the beginning of the year:




I wish I would have added the struts earlier. Car handles pretty nice for still having the alingment off. Little stiffer ride, I left the shock set on 2-Front and 4-rear for now.

Ordered new poly bushing for the front since the lower control arm moves in the rear mount.

[awd4kicks]

Nice work Chris!

[turbohcar]

One thing's for sure, get that bigger turbo on your car and it'll be everything I was dreaming mine could have been. Good job man!

[black92_tsi_awd]

Damn putting in new front bushings and found a blown lower control arm ball joint on the drivers side....it's always something!

Ad's posted in the exchange.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Crap, both sides have bad ball joints!!!

[black92_tsi_awd]

I'm still gathering lower arms looking for a good set...typical dsm parts, always a pain in the ass.

I am poly bushings proper function, in the front mount on the lower control arm in particular. Are the control arms supposed to rotate around the poly bushing as the suspension works or is the poly bushing supposed to be "attached" to the arm and the bushing/arm supposed to rotate around the mounting bolt bushing that is pinched in the frame mount?

Hmmmm, does that make sence to anybody?

[badbu68]

The bushings aren't supposed to move at all, the bolt rotates in the inner metal sleeve. The bushing is there to deflect movement other than the rotating of the bolt.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Well I got it all bolted together. I got a good drivers side arm and the passenger side rear pin mount is workable.

Since I've replaces the tie rods, struts, bushings on the front I was going to go get an aligment but since the back camber bolts are still seized it probably doesn't make any sence to yet. The alignment shop says they set the back and then do the front off of that.

I started thinking about what actually is adjustable on the stock front. The only thing I see that they can adjust at the aligment shop is the toe. There doesn't seem to be any adjustment to the caster/camber on the top strut mount, or am I missing something?

I've got the front tracking pretty straight with a tape measure alignment and 1/8" toe in, does anybody know what the toe in speck is?

[awd4kicks]

Thaere is no way to adjust amber or caster with the stock componentry. Unless you add some slots where the spindle mounts like I have. then you can get some camber adjustment.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Cool, I'll just check the toe and get the whole thing aligned after I fix the rear.

I have all new bolts for the rear--$$$!, I just need to order the bushings. I may weld up the rear upper control arm to stiffin it up some while I'm at it.

[black92_tsi_awd]

Had a long weekend of track time. Friday Fun Night I got 11 runs in and had some fun. Had a hard time getting some consistency. Alot of red lights that I think I can chalk up to to the new suspension reacting a lot quicker. My 60's are not getting much faster but I think it leaves a little harder/faster

Went back Sat for another round of the bracket series race #9.

These where qualifying runs:
12.858@106.7 with a r/t .002
12.736@107.42 with a r/t .038
12.957@106.66 with a r/t -.018

First round of eliminations:
12.88 dial ran a 13.046@106.32 with a r/t .030 Got out of it at 1000' and just kept a car ahead of the other lane

Second round
12.88 dial ran a 13.073@106.08 w a r/t .055. I holeshot the other car and again just stayed ahead of the other car to take the win.

Third round
12.88 dial and I went red on the start. The other car would have still beat me with my 12.96

Oh well, got 30 more points and won $20 for the second round win.