The TALON, Running Project Report Options

[awd4kicks]

The lexus is also for sale now due to funding issues.

is he willing to trade for an 11 second Talon?

[treydawgs4g63T]

i can ask him. If you would wanna do a staight up trade then i would imagine he would give it a good amount of thought.

Ill ask him tonite when i see him and let you know.

[turbohcar]

Sounds like a nice tow rig Marcus. Pics or Die!!!

[awd4kicks]

Check out the new thread for a picture of the rig.

Here are a couple pictures of the Center differential, input shaft and EVOIII 3rd gear that recently came out of my transmission. It's kind of hard to see, but there are virtually NO whole teeth left on the input shaft. Most of the teeth are missing from the diff. as well, while the EVOIII gear has all of it's teeth. Just some dents and nicks on EVO gears teeth. Pretty astounding that it held up so well.

[awd4kicks]

Hmmm... You may have to fix the coolant leak and transmission problem first. Then once you have the maintenance done... you are going to need a bigger turbo. Hahaha

[awd4kicks]

Well it looks like this year’s focus will be on road handling and refining the performance.

From a performance perspective I would like to optimize my tune with a dyno session by seasoned tuning veterans on 93 octane as well as a race gas tune. I will have these same vet's review my set-up for any minor corrections to reach new heights and street-ability with items such as better spool-up characteristics.

I've spoken with AMS and they can get me in within two weeks of calling for an appointment which is much better than I had heard through the grape vine. My only problem is that they require a DSM link or AEM to program with. So I have begun to look for a deal on a DSM link. I feel that the AEM is too expensive for my current needs and seeing the DSM link in Natedoggs car, showed me that it has most if not all that I could ever want in ECU tuning.

For handling I have spoken with Road Race Engineering. They obviously have direct access/relationship with Mueller who will set anyone’s DSM up with custom JIC's for around $4000! I'm sure this is a great set-up. It's the one they installed on Scott Gray's car for his SCC magazine coverage. However, I am still a cheap DSMer at heart and do not want to spend that kind of money. Mike Welch at RRE told me "...if you will be able to set things up your self we have been getting really good bang for the buck with the Megan coil overs. At ~$900 for the complete set they are very nice.
Made by the same manufacturer as Apexi's and Buddy Club." So I will be looking into these as an upgrade to my current set-up. If money becomes an issue I will just replace my rear Koni Yellows for around $300. The 2.5" Eibach spring combo and slip-on adjustable perches on the Yellows works pretty well, but I'm sure this set-up is a bit antiquated for great handling on the road track.

For braking I already had a set of '97 2G dual piston front calipers with custom stainless lines front and back all set-up with new EBC Yellow pads. As you may recall, I found a broken bolt in one of the calipers that was not able to be removed or repaired. Just this past week I received another set of 2 piston calipers from Scrapin-frame. These look to be in good shape with all the bolts working as they should. Only problem is that these calipers use a different type of fitting, so I will need to get back to Winner's Circle so I can get the correct pieces to mate to the calipers. There is also some maintenance I will have to perform which includes replacing the Passenger rear Caliper and possibly the rotor because it has been hanging up occasionally. (Cleaning and lubricating only partially cured the problem.) I also want to replace the brake booster either with a new factory unit or a custom hydraulic-assist set-up. Then before I button up the brake system it sounds like I should use a special brake fluid for road racing applications. I will have to do some research on this.

If there is any time and/or money left I would like to get some stickier rubber for all four corners.

I feel these improved details will help bring the Talon up from 'home built garage terror' status to an actual all out sports car contender.

Some competitive driving with a known power house showed me that the Talon already has handling skills well above average suspension that can be used at speed. The current tune also seems to make enough HP to overcome what I would consider very strong opposition. Handling, braking, tuning and tires should make things a whole lot better.

Honestly I would like to make a couple full weight runs down the quarter mile before calling it quits. It's obvious that my ET could be much better than the 11.8 that I posted with a 122MPH trap speed. My suspicions are that tire slippage is to blame for the slower ET. I also imagine that if I am having tire slippage, my MPH is also suffering. If that's the case, then tires may very well put the car into mid to low 11's all by them selves. On top of that race gas only improved my MPH and ET by a couple of tics last year. A good race gas tune should put things over the top! 10's may be a far fetch, but who knows?

[treydawgs4g63T]

I dont think getting your car in the 10's is to big of a task. I have read of many DSMers running ETs of that time or quicker with just the same or fewer mods but have an EXPERT TUNE JOB. Even though some of the fellow DSMers around the area are very well educated about the tuning process THE PROFESSIONALS are PROFESSIONAL for a reason.

I can say I think your car will be a 10 second car this year.

[awd4kicks]

I'm interested in hearing about this powerhouse comparison run.

Not much to tell...
On and off throttle to stay on the rear bumper but not run over said power house.

[awd4kicks]

I dont think getting your car in the 10's is to big of a task. I have read of many DSMers running ETs of that time or quicker with just the same or fewer mods but have an EXPERT TUNE JOB. Even though some of the fellow DSMers around the area are very well educated about the tuning process THE PROFESSIONALS are PROFESSIONAL for a reason.

I can say I think your car will be a 10 second car this year.

I agree, but weight is surely a factor as well. I don't know too many DSM guys that haven't removed their interiors as well as a lot of other weight. My runs included most everything that comes stock on a DSM...even the spare tire and jack if I remember correctly.

[kapoosh]

I'm actually using Megan racing coilovers on the evo right now. I havent had a chance to really check them out since i put them on during winter pretty much, but so far i like them alot.

I probably researched for about 2 months before deciding to go with the megans. For under $1500 it's pretty much seems like the best set you can buy. Once it warms up a bit and i dial it in properly, you're more than welcome to give it a whirl and see what you think.

[awd4kicks]

Thanks Kapoosh. I'd like to take you up on checking out the Megan's.

[wortdog]

I bought a set of the Megans as well, for $900 they're hard to pass up. The Megans are identical to the low-end Apexi coilovers BTW.

[awd4kicks]

Back to the brakes...

I've got the correct adapters to mount my 2G big brake calipers with my Earls Stailess Steel braided lines now. I'm going to pick-up a rebuilt passenger rear caliper or both before I start this upgrade.

I've also been told to go to Hoerr Racing in Peoria and Get $80 brake fluid that resists boiling!?! WOW. Does anyone have experience with this or know exactly what I'm talking about?

As far as my brake booster, it seems that the fix may be much more simple than I had imagined. With some searching on DSMtuners and talk I came to realize that there is a check valve in the stock hose to the brake booster! That explains why my booster keeps getting stuffed with boost, because I put a custom hose to the booster when the length changed with the FRH manifold! DOH! So I need to check with Mitsu on a new one. there's no way I've got that thing laying around in one piece.

In the mean time I'm going to drive this bad boy for a few days while the Sun is out!

[natedogg]

Good info on the brake booster vacuum line. I've heard Motul brake fluid mentioned in SCC mag quite a bit on the race and time attack cars that they've covered. Don't know a whole lot more than that about it though.

Found this on Evosport. Seems to be what they recommend for racing. Heck of alot cheaper than $80.
http://www.evosport.com/product/proddetail...MTL.FLD.BRK.600

[awd4kicks]

Well it's ben a LONG time since I have updated the project thread.

To make a long story short I've had some persistant electrical gremlins over the past month. I've had every bit of my wiring strung out throughout the car and I've corrected many many small issues. Most importantly and hardest to find was (1) pin connector that was not making contat at the ECU plug.

I buttoned it all back up a few days ago and have been test driving it on low boost until last night.

Yep you guessed it. The Talon stranded me in the rain!

It's nothing that serious. It pulled one of it's normal dieing at a stop light fits, but to make matters exponentially worse... the engine would not re-start. No crank...nothing. It actually was doing this a while back and I disassembled and cleaned the ignition switch.

Well today I got it home and tested it. The ignition switch is working fine because I'm getting voltage to the starter when the key is turned. So it looks like I need a starter.

Does anyone have a starter to sell?

[awd4kicks]

Done. Got a new starter and we are back up and running like new again.

[ncgalant]

Good to hear Marcus. I've been by your house a lot lately. If you're needing any chip work done let me know. So how many of those chips did you scramble getting it working?

[awd4kicks]

Haha I'm on number 6 of 6!

[black92_tsi_awd]

good news! did you end up getting a parts store starter or did you find a used mitsu?

[SCCA Stang]

I don't know anything about $80 brake fluid , but I was running synthetic DOT4 with absolutely no boiling issues... you would probably be good with DOT4 too.

the biggest thing on brake fluid is making sure it is fresh and free of any water (brake fluid is hygroscopic which means that it adsorbs water) <--- yes that is spelled correctly, look it up.