Those little test lights just sense voltage. You can pick them up cheap at just about any autoparts store and maybe walmart. It's just a little probe with a light that comes on when voltage is present.

I've got a nice test light at home. I guess I never thought to check for signal at the injectors. DER! I'll do that tonight.

Mitsubishi here in town has an MPI relay in stock that I can have at well under Retail. I think I'm going to go pick it up this afternoon if anything just to have a spare.

Bought the new MPI relay, put it in, no dice.

After pulling one of the injector harnesses off while I had my assistant crank the engine, the darker wire gets power while the lighter colored one doesn't. It's not like a signal power either, it's on constantly but I suppose that doesn't matter.

Looks like I've got trouble with the injectors!?!?

Problem is, I sold my originals to AWD POS DSM 1 awhile back. Otherwise I would homeboy.

I've got a stock set also.

I'll have to take you up on that. You'll have a PM in about 5.23 seconds.

Brett, The power should light the test light up in short and quick bursts just as if it were firing the injector when cranking the engine. Touch the probe on one side of the plug and ground to the other side while cranking to verify you are seeing pulses similar to that which will fire an injector.

I'll be interested to see what the stock injectors do.

Depending on how quickly the your test light drains its current, you may not be able to discern separate pulses. If you know anyone near you that has a multimeter that will measure frequency and/or duty cycle, you can use that to measure the number of pulses per second (frequency in Hz) or the injector duty cycle.

Looks like I'll have to borrow a multimeter. I just tried doing the test that Marcus described and the light got dim as I cranked but I wasn't able to discern between pulses. The darker (brown wire) would be powered when the ignition is ON and get dim when I started cranking. The other lighter (yellow w/ stripe) wire has no power to it at all so I assumed it was the ground. I hooked the wires up accordingly, grounded the yellow, hooked the brown one up to the test light and got those results. The power wire also goes off when the ECU powers off.

Mind you all of this is with the brand new MPI relay.

Is 27 psi enough pressure for the injectors to fire??

Isn't the pressure supposed to be 38-40 psi? It seems to me that if your still only getting 27 psi at the gauge something isn't right. The pump could be bad. Did you use rubber hose to connect the pump in the tank? They've been know to split, which would bleed off all your pressure.

http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/

27 / 36-38 psi
Fuel pressures given are at curb idle. 1G numbers are as follows: the first number is stock; the second number is with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and plugged.

I've also got the AFPR adjustment screw backed out all the way in order to achieve the 27psi number.

Hmm. I run mine at a base pressure with the vacuum hose connected of 37 psi. When the vacuum hose is disconnected and plugged it jumps to about 42 psi. Given the relatively small difference (5 psi) between my two numbers, I have a hard time believing that particular vfaq which shows a difference of ~10 psi. Plus I don't think I've ever heard of anyone running there fuel pressure that low. I've always heard 37 psi is stock on 1G's.

I'd try cranking your fuel pressure up. It may not help, but its worth a try.

Fuel pressure is set at 37psi now, still no fire. Just keeps cranking...

Finally got that Turd running tonight! Amazingly enough it took some new injectors (thanks to Spyguy for the 720s) and a non-eprom ECU. More investigation to come tomorrow morning.

W T F !?!?! Was it the ecu or the freshly dousched injectors?

OK, here are the results.

The 780's don't work regardless of what I do. I put the 720's in and they will only run with a stock ECU (even the Eprom with the stock chip). It will not run with the Wortchip or the 780's regardless of what combination.

Sorry for the delay. I've only had a few minutes here and there in the past couple days to work on it.

I haven't installed my walbro for the 2 months I've had it...Everytime I attempt to get the fuel fitting off, even with the 2 correct line wrenches, it's a no-go...I think Im actually stripping the nut...

Next week Im gonna try using some Vice Grips, and if thats a no-go also, then I might have to make a new fuel line and all with my friends flaring tool....Those bolts, yeah, let's hope those don't break either, not so confident....I will have my buddy tap it out and we'll go from there...Jeez, PB blaster is no match for my fuel pump

Turbohcar, callthe folks that cleaned the injectors. Their info will be on the receipt I gave you with the injectors. Ask if the have any suggestions. If they don't then let me have a shot at getting them to work. They simply can't be a lost cause.

Get a small wire brush in a Dremel and get rid of all the rust buildup on the threads and where the tube comes through the nut. That way the PB can penetrate through to the threads. I also put a small block of wood between the tube and the top of the tank, so you can really bear down on the wrenches,

thats what i was thinking...

I was actually very careful with how I drilled the studs out and drained the tank AFTER I did the drilling and I got all the shavings out. Surprisingly, there was more dirt and shavings in the tank before I started drilling than after.

I'll try and call them tomorrow Marcus. Thanks

i didnt realize this post was this long, only read to the first page...

I ended up cutting the line were the fitting is, and putting a high pressure line there with some hose clamps... works ok for me. now i dont mess with that fitting thats always rusted

I called and talked with the guy that cleaned the injectors. He said that more than likely they are a set of High impedance injectors and the 1G Turbo ECU is made to work with Low impedance injectors, therefore causing the trouble. He said that's the only way all four of them wouldn't work.

The VFaq says that non-turbo models use High impedance injectors while the turbo models use the Low impedance injectors. Could it be possible when somebody ordered them that they ordered a set for a non-turbo by accident?

That's funny they worked with my BR500 for about 300 miles with no issues. Call me so we can meet up and I'll make them work in my car and then you can put them back in yours.

Electrical systems in general is not my forte. Please explain.

Kicks, I'll call here in a bit.

High impedence injectors over 650cc or so don't exist unless they're custom made.

Well, went to Kicks house yesterday and watched these same 780cc injectors run in his car. Don't ask me why they don't run in mine, I have no idea. He was also kind enough to give me a chip that he got from NCGalant free of charge. I'll try them here sometime this weekend in my car and get the new transfer case up at least.

Well, it's all over boys. I sold the motor today to none other than Rob (AWD DSM 1) who was also kind enough to assist me with taking it out and using his engine hoist. Rob has become quite the expert at DSM demolition (and builds) and I'm sure the motor will serve him well. As for me, I'm moving on into the different and unknown. PM me for details if you need parts.

The problem with the injectors is resolved and attributed to an accidental bad Eprom chip.