Ok, i have started many threads over the last few years on cars i plan on building but never keep them going. This year, I have a decent car to work with and Have been making plans of what im gonna do to it all throughout the year. So for those of you who dont know me, my names TRAVIS a.k.a TJ. My current car is a 1993 Mitsu Eclipse GSX. Heres a little background on the car:

1993 GSX
red in color
Automatic tranny ( first out of 11 DSM's , yeah i know )
Black leather interior
sunroof
VERY NICE!

I bought this car almost a year ago from a buddy who had it at his parents sitting in a field. Believe it or not with no side effects. The only things that were wrong with it are two rust spots on the rear wheel wells. I also had to bug bomb it because there were a million spiders inside of it.

I have since installed a rebuilt 6 bolt motor and have been driving it for awhile now. I am still not sure how well i like the automatic tranny over a 5 speed but im getting used to it. I do however like the fact that the boost is constant even during shifts. which is an advantage over a manuel tranny car.

I would spend the next hour typing the info on the car but just go to my garage and you will find out.

My goals for this season are:

1- actually race my car at the track
2- run a mid/high 12 second pass
3- drive it more then its broke!!

Well im gonna cut it short for now but i will keep you guys posted every few days on the whats new and how shes runnin.

Sounds like a plan TJ! Keep it rolling.

Ok, so i made a big mistake. I used a OEM headgasket when i rebuilt the motor and now i have to change it.

now i know the obvious things to check before going through all this work and i have already done most.

replaced almost everything to do with the cooling system ( water pump, thermostat, cooling fan switch, heater core, radiator , etc. )
checked my coolant flow ( all good)
checked compression and its still good 150 across
not using any oil

but......
spark plugs were wet
loosing coolant like crazy
excessive pressure in the cooling system causing coolant to boil over

gimma all the input you guys have but im pretty sure i will be installing a metal headgasket ( which i should have done in the first place ) real soon!!!!!!

any cross-contamination between oil and coolant?

metal is not really needed a cosmetic with arp's will work well. unless you are thinking about running really high boost 40 to 50, then i would have the block o-ringed titan's copper hg.

TJ, it definitely sounds like you are pressurizing the coolant system with boost.

If you're going to stick with the 16g, then I would use the Mitsu 4 layer gasket with your ARP's. I personally feel that the Cometic can be better, but because it needs such a perfect surface preparation, I've seen and heard it fail a lot also. It wouldn't be a good idea in your case, unless you just had the deck of the block surfaced to the Cometic required finish. Even if you refinish the head surface now, an old deck surface would screw you over with a Cometic gasket.

If you are going to up your turbo to run high boost with a GT35 or your Precision, then I would recommend the O-ringing mentioned by Doayamaha. If you have that done the stock Mitsu head gasket has been working great for me.

thanks for the input guys!

no theres not any oil mixed with the coolant or vise versa

when i said metal HG i meant a cometic. i think i will just go with the mitsu 4 layer like you mentioned marcus. I will be pulling it apart in the next week.

I dont plan on running the precision or gt35 on this motor so the mitsu HG should be fine. I am building the other motor for that turbo setup.

ok guys, i ordered the goods.

mitsu 4 layer headgasket
ARP headstuds

also got my frontmount back off my brother
along with a set of AMS 580cc injectors

she will be going under this weekend.

hows that throttle body working?

Let us know how everything works out.

Mitsu: its doin the same thing mine was doin. I dont know if they all do that or what so im gonna ask you other guys.

Ive done two boost leak tests in the past week. One with my throttle body and one with a diff. TB from Mitsu. Both TB's leak pretty bad from the seal behind the return spring. Do all throttle bodies leak there or are both of these in need of a rebuild???????

Also, my brothers car has a Eprom ecu and mine isnt. Would the eprom work in my car without effecting anything since his is manuel and mines auto? I know my TCU takes care of most but wasnt sure.

thanks

????????

If I remember right a manual ECU is not compatible with an auto ECU.

I imagine both TB's are in need of a rebuild. Those seals dry rot with age. I've had to rebuild just about every one I've ever owned. There are some good instructions on how to rebuild on vfaq.

JNZ sells the seals ($12??) I bought a set last year and never had the time to redo my leaking TB.

Or you can pick some up at a hardware store on the cheap. They're just rubber o-rings.

On the h/g... fwiw, I ran 26 psi from a 20g on a mitsu stocker and old stock bolts... your set-up should work ok.

that sucks about the Eprom. Oh well! i will prolly try and rebuild one of the throttle bodies i have layin around and see how that goes.

not 100% but I do believe this will work. I remember when I had my auto, reading the atdsm boards people were talking about running a 14b and 450's in an auto and they would use a 5 speed ECU to compensate for the change. I also gave my auto ECU to ncgalant whom I believe used it in the laser for a short time.

That very well could be. NC would know better than I. I have little to no experience with autos.

well heres a little update on the gsx. I got the headstuds and head gasket on the other day. As well as the front mount and injectors. Should have it back on the streets this weekend.

Any word on the ECU deal NC?

well i have found a bunch of people that say the Eprom will work and the Eprom wont work. so i think im just gonna use it and see what happens.

I need to get some input from you guys on my new problem. I have been running way to rich with the new injectors in ( AMS 580cc ). I turned my fuel pressure down to 40psi because i had it set at 42psi with the stock injectors. I am dumping way to much fuel into my motor now and i cant even run much more then a few psi of boost and its floods itseld out. What can i do to solve this issue? Cory has a maf and translator that i can get off him if neccessary.

you need to either get an AFC or get a eprom and have ncgalant burn a chip for it. the maft is not the best tuning device around. I was just talking to NC about this just a few mins ago. buy and afc or eprom.

I ran my 680's and 850's with just a MAF translator before I did the custom EPROM with NCGalant. I wouldn't say the MAFT made for the perfect tune, but I never had a problem with it not running, idling or accelerating. Just not as good as it could be with better tuning tools.

Hell, Now I want a DSMLink so I can get a race gas Dyno tune from AMS or the like.

x2

yeah, im gonna buy dsmlink as soon as i sell the talon i just picked up. anyone know someone looking for a nice 1g? its only got 92k on it.

who is the best place to go through to get an Eprom socketed. I dont trust myself doing the soldering?

Also, i think im gonna throw the maf and translator on it for now and see what i can do. But i need to get a chip from nate and get the eprom ready to drop in.

Get me a DSM link and you can have my socketed ECU!

Shoot me a PM with the specifics. I know someone looking for decent starter dsm.

this guy is saposta be good. Terry Posten I think I am gonna send mine to him to see if he can save it.

Hahahahahahaha! nice try

hey guys, what would be makin my header glow red? I thought it was cause i was super rich with the 580 injectors in and i switched the stockers back in. took it for a drive last night and it still glows a little bit.

turbo?

At night all turbo exhaust manifolds and turbos will have a slight red glow. It is very normal especially if you were getting into the power of the turbo.

If you are getting a lot of red glow without getting into the power, I would check your timing. Retarded timing can cause late ignition which will allow higher combustion heat into the exhaust. I ran into this issue when NCGalant and I were custom tuning the chip for my stroker and the new 2.0.

what should the timing be set at while at idle? i used a timing light and its around 5* on the timing cover.

should be 5* BTDC

What he said.

Make sure that you are grounding out what I will call the 'test plug' right near the stock battery location on the fire wall. If you are not doing this the timing should be roughly around 8* BTDC, but the ECU keeps it jumping around so it's best to ground it while checking your timing. (Sorry if this is old info rehashed...just making sure)

yeah, timing was at about 9*. im trying to reload my logger so i can see what its doing under acceleration. plus my throttle body is leakin prety bad.

well, its been awhile since i posted anything......

The GSX is running good, idle surging a little because of the leaking throttlebody. yeah, i still havent fixed it. but i did order the seals last friday.

Also, ordered a new wastegate spring set to put me at 17 psi instead of 11.

Ordered a badass set of headlights yesterday as well.

you better let me know what this thing runs still think the subie would have ate her for lunch hahaha

yeah, but it ate a TREE instead! haha

got my W/G springs today, also installed my TB seals and cleaned up the one ima put on my car.

Well, i have a story for you guys. First off, this project is over and i wont be doing another one for awhile. Yesterday was one of the worst days in my life and I hope my loss can be some of you DSMers gain.

I had to make an emergency trip to the ER yesterday because my car over heated and the water neck blew apart. Spraying me in the face with Very hot ( 300* + ) antifreeze. we have yet to figure out why it just decided to get hot but wont be finding out either.

After spending 2 hours in the ER, I walked away with 2nd degree burns on the whole left side of my face and around my eye. Today, I had to go to my regular doctor, an eye specialist, and tomorrow i have to go to a Plastic Surgeon.

And on top of my injury, my car is knocking like a mother. Dont know what happened yet but Im guessing its either a warped piston or something in the head. It was so hot that it melted my spark plug cover.

So, I have decided to leave the DSM game for awhile and get my life together , ridding some debts and buy a house! Here is the list of parts that i have for sale and I will also be selling the chassis after all parts are off.

"LEAVING THE GAME SALE"

16" Enkei Drag rims w/ tires (70% tread) = $350.00
*will not ship*

Aeromotive AFPR w/ liquid filled gauge, SS return line and all neccessary fittings = $175.00
*shipped*

Buschur 3" SS turbo back exhaust w/ o2 eliminator o2 housing = $400.00

92-94 blacked out headlights & corners, have crystal clear lenses, h4 bulbs = $175.00

Turbosmart Ultragate 38mm wastegate (external), comes with an extra 7psi spring and a 10psi spring. also with a dump tube that routes to the ground = $215.00

SBR tubular header w/ WG flange, SS , comes with newer mitsu 4layer gasket= $280.00 paid 500.00

EvoIII 16g, fully ported, externally gated, 6k miles = $375.00

Kenwood cd player, works great, 50wx4 = $75.00

Punishment Racing FMIC kit, all piping, all couplers, all clamps, comes with 1g uncrushed BOV, SS J pipe, perfect core, and brackets that bolt to the bottom of the chassis. $400.00

KYB GR2 shocks w/ newer OEM springs, great ride = $175.00

*BNIB* Eagle H beam rods w/ ARP rod bolts (installed) and Weisco pistons w/ rings and wrist pins = $550.00 shipped paid 755.00 from extremepsi.com

Turbo XS mbc, like new = $40.00 shipped

Bare 6 bolt block = $50.00

Perfect black leather 1g seats = $225.00

Non-Eprom ECU, perfect condition = $110.00

Tranny TCU = $150.00

Perfect working order Auto AWD tranny, 123k = $300.00

Perfect working order Auto AWD Tcase = $100.00

Fuel pump sending unit w/ Walbro 255 HP pump =$125.00

Front/Rear upper strut bars, RED = $75.00

New alternator = $80.00

New OEM torque converter = $80.00

Great condition drive shaft w/ new carrier bearings and revised Yoke from MACHV.com = $150.00

4 bolt auto rear end = $200.00

12" flex fan = $35.00

B&M external oil cooler w/ lines, 6 bolt oil filter housing = $125.00

B&M external tranny fluid cooler w/ lines = $55.00

unhacked 1g MAFS w/ snorkel and K&N = $80.00

perfect condition engine wiring harness = $125.00

1g Throttle body w/ new shaft seals, cleaned = $90.00

1g black top CAS = $75.00

1g grey top CAS = $45.00

valve cover = $65.00

Vent location gauge pod, holds 1 gauge and an AFC = $15.00

motor mount set w/ polyurethane inserts = $75.00

Perfect AWD equal length front axle = $75.00

Perfect AWD passenger side front axle = $50.00

Like new AMS 580cc injectors = $150.00

set of stock 450cc injectors = $90.00

new plug wires = $50.00

Coil Pack = $60.00

Thermostat housing w/ sensors = $45.00

Turbo feed & return line set = $40.00

upper timing covers = $15.00

lower timing cover = $55.00

Front AWD calipers w/ rotors = $125.00

Rear AWD calipers w/ rotors - $125.00

Brand new rear hatch supports = $55.00pair

good working knock sensor = $45.00 unit

working ABS unit = $45.00

SS oil feedline w/ Earls filter (head location) = $45.00

stock 1g boost controller selonoid = $20.00

Polyurethane REAR m/m insert = $15.00

polyurethane Tranny m/m insert = $15.00

2g exhaust manifold = $55.00

Send me an EMAIL or PM with interests! I check my email more frequently though.

also will be adding more to the list in the next few hours.

I hate to do this but i cant afford to fix it again and dont really have the time with a full time job and a daughter of 9 months.

thanks for looking and I will still be haunting this site.

Sorry to hear about the accident. Hope you recouperate well.

Damn Travis, that's terrible news! Stay in touch with us, but by all means take care of yourself and your family man!

adam told me about this but I didn't know you got burnt that bad.. sux for sure.

Wow sorry to hear about that Tj... I hope everything works out ok for you...

thanks guys! i should be good in a few weeks. my face is starting to turn purple and pealing.

Also, I sold the stock black leather seats today for $200!! hate to part out my car but this accident is gonna be pricey. Good thing i have AFLAC!!!!

Sorry to hear about that man. One of those wrong place at the wrong time kinda things. Hope you get better soon.

Still have the wheels by any chance...

Well guys, i have decided to start over on the GSX. I have parted out most of my performance mods but I will be able to get it running again in stock condition. I will have a stage III cylinder head though.

I also got another toy that i will post pics of in my garage in a few minutes.

and no Dakota , i sold the rims as well. I am currently rolling on a set of 2g awd rims. I could sell you those if you want them. let me know