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> Looking at getting 1g GSX
Temp_Me96
post Jul 9 2004, 05:45 PM
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Yes I am truly looking into getting a 1g GSX. But I know very little about these cars or should I say the 4g63 other than what I have ran into when I worked at the plant. This ride is already modded fully internally and externally so does it still matter about the crank walk if it has different piston, rods and bearings? Also what block was it that they finally got this problem basically taken care of and how do you tell what block you have? Jesus I feel like Ive never worked on cars before but this motor is still pretty new too me and I want to make sure I get a good buy. So any input would be appreciated. Like drivetrain problems to look for and such.
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Rollout
post Jul 9 2004, 06:04 PM
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You want a 6 bolt motor, they were in all cars before 93 i believe, but i know its close to there. Replacing the rods and pistons wont avoid crankwalk in anyway, but replacing the bearings may or may not help the motor last longer. Typically the 2nd gen cars are the ones that walk, but a few 1g's (94's mainly) have been known to have the problem.


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Temp_Me96
post Jul 9 2004, 08:02 PM
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I want to say this is a 92 I cant remember at this time if the headlights are pop up or not. LOL! I guess I should look at that. Also do you or anyone else know what an HKS Vein Pressure Converter is? I was thinking its another way of saying boost controller. I went to HKS but couldnt find it anywhere but did find a unit that looked similiar. Also this car has an HKS PFC F-Con and HKS external wastegate and blowoff valve. So it looks like they started modding with quality parts. Plus it has a turbo upgrade but Im not sure what it is although it does still have the diamond stars on it. So I was thinking 20g because it is much much bigger than my 14b.
So how do you know what block youve got? Im guessing you wont know until you open it up or take the trans off right?
Any info is welcomed I would really like to learn as much as possible. I am trying to do research but not really sure on what to look for seeign that this is a completely different set up than what Im really use too. As in its not a 420A or a Big Block. LOL!
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90GSX
post Jul 9 2004, 08:08 PM
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http://www.vfaq.com/mods/early-late-engine.html

anything before half way though the year of 92 would be the 6 bolt block, anything after that would be 7 bolt. So some 92's have the 7 bolt, some have 6


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Justincredible
post Jul 9 2004, 09:14 PM
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I have a beauty up for sale as we speak. ready for the big turbo. got the fuel, driveline, and exhaust.
check out my f/s thread.

http://www.dsmcentral.com/invision/index.p...owtopic=1974&s=
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turbohcar
post Jul 9 2004, 09:21 PM
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The engine code is written on the side of the block hiding just behind the 02 housing. It's not going to say six bolt or seven bolt (crankwalk prone) in that engine code though. The easiest way you'll be able to tell is by year. 92 or previous = 6 bolt, 93 or later = 7 bolt


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KOU In3
post Jul 9 2004, 10:43 PM
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VPC= elimate the factory MAS, be able to vent the BOV. Used to be popular before the MAFT translator hit the scene.

Halfway step to a standalone but easy to tune with simple knobs. (poor analogy)

I think Daryl used to run an SAFC VPC combo on his old set-up a couple of years back.

Also, make sure it's an early '92 as they were putting the 7bolts in during the last half the year I believe.


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Temp_Me96
post Jul 10 2004, 08:11 AM
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I have the vin code would that make a difference to anyone on the information they could find out? When I worked there that would always help but Im thinking that getting to that old of a record would be difficult now. So Im taking it that there isnt anything to look for that could be bad other than finding out exactly what year it is and when it was built. There is nothing bad to look for in the drivetrain? Its a very clean engine with no oil leaks or anything whatsoever. Im thinking this could be a good buy.
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Justincredible
post Jul 10 2004, 03:49 PM
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only downside is your trusting someone else's work. unless its someone you know I wouldnt trust it.
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resalturbo
post Jul 10 2004, 03:57 PM
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i agree with justin, that car could be all..@#$@#Rigged
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KOU In3
post Jul 10 2004, 04:00 PM
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How about we just say: 'jury rigged', 'Hacked', or 'poorly installed'
sad.gif


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mark95turbo
post Jul 10 2004, 04:27 PM
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I'll sell you my TSi AWD for $2900!


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Justincredible
post Jul 10 2004, 04:32 PM
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QUOTE (mark95turbo @ Jul 10 2004, 05:27 PM)
I'll sell you my TSi AWD for $2900!

dang I cant compete with that price.
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MidwestDSM
post Jul 10 2004, 04:33 PM
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QUOTE (KOU In3 @ Jul 10 2004, 04:00 PM)
How about we just say: 'jury rigged', 'Hacked', or 'poorly installed'
sad.gif

dry.gif ditto
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resalturbo
post Jul 10 2004, 08:44 PM
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sorry about the bad language boys, i will try to refrain from it smile.gif


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turbohcar
post Jul 10 2004, 11:19 PM
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The doorjam on the drivers side towards the back of the car shows the build date. You should be able to tell from that.


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natedogg
post Jul 12 2004, 04:12 PM
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You can tell for sure by looking at the oil pan. See here: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/early-late-engine.html
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turbohcar
post Jul 12 2004, 06:34 PM
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Nice info there natedogg. I'd never heard of that one before.


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DSM5
post Jul 12 2004, 07:27 PM
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About whos worked on it, i know that temp_me knows who has done all the work on it, and he knows it was done right.
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Temp_Me96
post Jul 17 2004, 02:30 PM
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The car has flip up headlights and when I get the chance I will check the oil pan. Thats the kind of info I was looking for so thank you very much Natedogg for helping out. From talking to the original engine builder this car may need the lower end rebuilt. So Im thinking about replacing the crank and bearings. Can you balance these cranks? Also I am waiting on a price from KOU on the crank and bearing prices. This doesnt need to be replaced other than we know how long and hard its been driven.
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lawngsx
post Jul 17 2004, 02:51 PM
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If it has flip up headlights it means it's a 90-91 and therefore a 6-bolt. No need to check the oil pan.


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AWD DSM 1
post Jul 17 2004, 10:11 PM
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QUOTE (Temp_Me96 @ Jul 17 2004, 02:30 PM)
The car has flip up headlights and when I get the chance I will check the oil pan. Thats the kind of info I was looking for so thank you very much Natedogg for helping out. From talking to the original engine builder this car may need the lower end rebuilt. So Im thinking about replacing the crank and bearings. Can you balance these cranks? Also I am waiting on a price from KOU on the crank and bearing prices. This doesnt need to be replaced other than we know how long and hard its been driven.

I know you can have the rotating assembly balanced (assuming you can do just the crank also) and/or have the crank knife edged, but unless you're going balls-to-the-wall it's really not necessary. What makes you think the crank needs replaced? Stock motors can usually take a LOT of abuse...


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SCCA Stang
post Jul 18 2004, 06:50 AM
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QUOTE (lawngsx @ Jul 17 2004, 02:51 PM)
If it has flip up headlights it means it's a 90-91 and therefore a 6-bolt. No need to check the oil pan.

this is correct unless the stock motor blew up and a 7-bolt was swapped in, I would check everything, the other thing is that I heard some infor once that if a 7 bolt was going to walk it would happen with-in 100,000 miles... if it has 100K and is still fine, it looks like you have a good one....

crank walk is caused more because of the oil squirters than the crank itself (so I've been told)


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natedogg
post Jul 18 2004, 08:22 AM
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Ehhhh...every 7-bolt is just as prone to crankwalk as the next one because they are all based on the same flawed design. Its a combination of mileage, time, and abuse that finally does one in.

Best crank walk article I've ever found.
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/crankwalktheory.htm

I also agree with AWD DSM 1. The 6-bolt crank is the strongest piece in the engine, forged and hardened. Unless a bearing has been spun on it in a bad way, it shouldn't need to be replaced. If you feel the need to strengthen the engine, start with some forged pistons. If you think you'll be making more than 450-500 hp at some point go ahead and put strong rods in as well. The stock 6-bolt rods will stand up to alot of hp.
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Temp_Me96
post Jul 18 2004, 10:52 PM
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Actually I do believe it already has the forged pistons in it. But im not 100% sure. I will be looking into that. I am getting all the receipts on the car here soon so I can go ver them and see what has or hasnt been done. This car at one time was very fast / quick in its day. I was just thinking with the abuse the motor has had that freshening the bottom end couldnt hurt. Since it would all basically come why not have it balanced.

Info so far to my knowledge:

4g63 built
20g w/external wastegate
3" Exhaust
Bigger Fuel Line w/two pumps
FMIC
HKS BOV
HKS VPR
HKS P F-con
Boost, Oil temp, fuel pressure, EGT and A/F gauges

Im sure there is more. Im more interested in the internals.
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Justincredible
post Jul 18 2004, 11:06 PM
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QUOTE (Temp_Me96 @ Jul 18 2004, 11:52 PM)
20g w/external wastegate
Bigger Fuel Line w/two pumps
HKS BOV
HKS VPR
HKS P F-con

ok. questions?

why larger fuel lines and two pumps for a 20g? that should support much larger.
(not bashing just curious if someone downsized it on purpose. i.e. ran piss out of car with larger turbo.)


hks bov? why?
same goes with a P f-con.

and wtf. is a
hks VPR
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Temp_Me96
post Jul 20 2004, 04:06 PM
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Im sorry not a VPR its a Vein Pressure Convertor by HKS. Like I said Im not 100% on the turbo Im thinking its a 20g fron speaking with KOU and from what I can tell. This car has gone through many different setups so Im not sure on why they have what looks to be bigger fuel lines and two pumps other than possibly getting ready at one time to go bigger. Most of this build up is old school so keep that in mind.
Im not understanding what your asking on why the BOV and why the Pf-con? Why wouldnt you? Maybe this all goes back to old school or maybe its bigger than a 20g. I wont know until I get the ride and rip it apart. I will try to get pictures of the turbo and more here soon.
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