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> 2G SAFCII tuning ins and outs, Posts for ideas and
justooln2
post Apr 13 2006, 09:11 PM
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From: Peoria
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any people that know what they are talking about would be more than welcome as far as tuning and setting up the SAFC thanks Don L


Ok here is a run down on my hop ups.
Car is Dropped 2”
KYB GR2 shocks
Full set of hard pipe,
Greddy Type S Blow Off Valve
Full 3” A’pex I Turbo back exhaust
B&M Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator
B&M fuel pressure gauge.
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
Full set of slotted and vented Rotor
Full set of Ceramic pads
Short throw Shifter
Shifter Stabilizer Bushing
Turbo XS dual Stage boost controller
A’pex I SAFC II still tuning with that one..
Custom Propane Injection (controlled on manifold boost pressure)
Removed the air dam in front of the passenger tire and installed a grill mesh

My data logger is on its way still and I have never used one so when that gets here I will probably be posting more questions on that topic too.

Not on the car or not going to go on.
Ceramic coated header it’s a pacesetter but I hope it will last long enough to pay for its self.
I have 2 extra T25s and a T28 for another car
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ncgalant
post Apr 14 2006, 11:30 AM
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From: Chillicothe, IL
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Tuning is pretty simple with a SAFC and a 2g other than you can't see knock. The first thing you will do is to set the low so that your long and short fuel trims add up to 0. Just cruise in 4th and do each point from 1000-3500.
Set your low throttle point at 30 and your high at 70-80.

Now go do a 3rd gear pull. You want to see it through the whole rev range wide open. Start at 1000, go to 7000. For this watch RPM, timing, and O2 ONLY. OBD2 is slow and you don't want to pull to many points at a time. Your timing should start high, then fall way down as boost comes on. At the point where you have full boost, your timing will bottom out. From that point on you should gain 1-2 degrees of timing for every 1000 RPMs. If you see the timing drop down a bit as the RPMs go up, this may be from knock timing retard. First try adding 2-3% at that point. If that makes it worse, then go the other direction. With each run of corrections you should see the same or more timing for each RPM. If you see less than the last run, then your last correction was in error.

If you need a hand with it, I'd be happy to lend it.


--------------------
GVR4 866/1000 = the perpetually broken car
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